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Dont know about my checking fixture, but the cam fits simi snug, with no "loose" spot, just snug all around. Seems not enough to mark the bearings.
Course I got all excited to use my brandie new Snap On torque wrench and installed the crank. Well I guess I get to use it a few more times since I had to take the crank out again.
Dammit if I don't have any blueing.
Damn bent camshafts.
.002 and .003 on one journal
Brian
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HMMM...scary
Comp says to send the cam back and they will check it. My guess is it gets put into a press and straightened.
This cam sat sealed its it's boxhome, I never even opened it. Probably warped from no support.
Should I just thumb through the pages of my new Summit catalog?
I'm thinking so.
Brian
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If you bought it from Summit they will replace it. You can straighten a cam the same way you straighten a crank. V blocks........rounded chisel shaped to radius....hit the low side....it's the rebound that straightens.
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If you bought it from Summit they will replace it. You can straighten a cam the same way you straighten a crank. V blocks........rounded chisel shaped to radius....hit the low side....it's the rebound that straightens.
My hero, I was hoping you would reply.
I was going to put one on will call and have my sister pick it up from Sparks and bring it with her on the plane. No luck either, not in stock. Sweet.
My luck I would break it, or worse break later on...you know at WOT
Brian
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You don't hit it that hard. I have straightened many. Usually from broken roller lifters. Never seen a new one not straight. Have seen cam bearing bores that were on the small side and on those you have to scrape the bearing lightly for more clearance. Also some cam bearings in some block just tend to collapse more when installed.
A press is when there is danger of breaking. Cams and cranks should never bet starightened in a press.
Yeah...Summit has little in hard core parts. They disappoint me a lot. It's always in Ohio.
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No, nothing ever breaks at WOT. :eek:
As hard as those things are, I'd be more than a little nervous myself wsuwrhr.
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For the record, I have seen it done, but never done it myself.
You hit it on the LOW side, and the rebound is what straightens the shaft?
Crazy.
Brian
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In Comp's defense, I never opened the box. It sat on the shelf for at least a year.
I will mic all the bores right now. They don't FEEL clearance tight though. The cam slides in fine.
If I slightly put the cam into the bores, it turns smoothly, any farther than that and it feels tight, exactly as if it were bent.
Brian
Never seen a new one not straight. Have seen cam bearing bores that were on the small side and on those you have to scrape the bearing lightly for more clearance. Also some cam bearings in some block just tend to collapse more when installed.
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Yeah..the rebound. The opposite of what one would think. If you had an old cam....you could play with it and see.
If there is a notable crank shop in your area....they would know what to do.
On another note: Tube chassis and rear end housings are straightened the same way but with heat. You don't pry or bend anything.....you apply the heat (rosebud tip) in certain areas......the heat makes the part go in the opposite direction you had hoped for. But when it cools it will have moved in the direction you wanted to straighten the part. If that makes any sense. All I know is...it works.
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Yeah..the rebound. The opposite of what one would think. If you had an old cam....you could play with it and see.
If there is a notable crank shop in your area....they would know what to do.
Sorry, a newbe here... I am not getting this... you set the cam in a pair of v-blocks and find the low point? Then strike it with a shaped chisel? Where on the cam does the chisel make contact w/ the cam?