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I have a four bolt Gen IV 454 that was bored .60 over two years ago. Due to the impending gale banks turbo installation, I want to know if I can just hone the cylinders since the compression is still good? OR do I need to bore it .10 more for a true finish.
Second Question(s)
. Since I live in Brea, can anyone recommend a good short block machine shop to do it and what pistons to use since I will be running a turbo setup with about 6 pounds of boost? Currently, it is running 10 to 1 compression with the peanut heads and the block has been decked twice. I can get the motor torn down but dont know exactly what compression to go with, what different heads to use, what pistons to use, or what type of cam. Since I plan to change the heads and it will be in a 21 foot open bow jet boat (with kids and wife), I am not looking to go crazy with boost. I have been told to go with the 049 or 781 heads but I have also heard to dump the oval ports all together and go with the rect. Ports. Finally, what should the timing be set at? Just trying to make a good boat faster.
Thanks in advance.
Brendan
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Are you wanting to do this as cheap as possible or spend what it will take to do it right the first time and be done?
Also depends on what hp range you want to make?
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I don't want to shortcut, nor will I. However, I have no problem buying anything I need off of eBay or used. If I had it my way, I would by running a tall deck stroker motor, etc., but... I am not on a budget persay but need to make sure that I have gas money left over. If it means buying specific parts, then so be it. Like I said, it is a 21 foot open bow jet boat so I am not trying to set any records. Just need it to be dependable not "over dependable."
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I would take the block down and have the cylinder walls checked for thickness and cracks,basically have it completely checked out.You can buy some lower priced H beam rods for a good price almost anywhere or get some of the better stock chevy rods and put good bolts in them and cleaned up.You can also buy a low dollar forged crank or if you already have one,have it checked out and cleaned up.You dont need top dollar parts to make 500-600hp.Theres guy making more than 600hp with stock forged crank and rods but if you can spend the money on better parts,it a good idea.
Pick a machine shop that you like and have them do all of the stuff there,dont have one guy do this and another guy do that,keep it all under one shop.They will be able to cc your heads and build you a short block with the correct comp ratio and order you pistons as well.You can start off with big name shops and work your way down to somebody that you think you can trust and get a good price at the same time.Just about any good shop can set up the long block for what you want,its a different story to have them tune a turbo motor.Not many can tune a turbo motor properly.I would buy a set of aluminum heads as well.Good valvetrain is the most important thing to me if you want to make good hp and have it last.This is just my opnion,others have complete different ideas than mine.Take it for what you want.
BEP,Pfaff,DNE are all close to Brea.Plus a few I forgot.
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I use Clay Smith in Buena Park.
You could not go wrong with DNE down in Costa Mesa too.
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I can tell ya for sure where not to go. DO NOT USE REX RACING ENGINES IN SACRAMENTO. They are bone heads, known for crappy work :frown:
That'd be a long drive! Brea is in OC. ;)
probablecause, I grew up in Brea. Went to BOHS. I miss the old Brea....
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That'd be a long drive! Brea is in OC. ;)
probablecause, I grew up in Brea. Went to BOHS. I miss the old Brea....
My wife loves it here. But can't wait to move out. It is tough to keep my patriotic head up knowing that the left coast is a lost cause.
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Clay Smith would also be a good choice and good prices from what Ive heard.
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With the block being a 4 bolt, good chance the crank is steel, but be sure----block decked twice???----if the rods are 7/16 dimples, then they will work fine using new arp bolts----a person can usually buy after market steel heads either oval port or rectangle, complete or bare, cheaper than rebuilding stock used heads---- they will preform better, and last longer than aluminum heads in lake boats----your can buy them with any valve/ spring setup you want----be sure and get a good quality stainless exhaust valve due to the turbo----flattop pistons or maybe dished will have to used running 6# boost to keep from running race fuels----talk it over with engine builder and make sure the piston won't be sticking up past the block surface since it was decked-----may have to use a special piston height/ rod length combination----have a good cam grinder spec a cam for your application----Clay Smith is very good at this----sounds like it should get lots of attention and push the boat pretty good----don't see too many turbo lake boats
