-
i herd a weird noise in the out drive(alpha 1) this weekend on the lake it sounds like the u joints on the out drive, when i trim it out it most of the noise goes away... is it a bitch to change? smile_sp i guessing i have to pull out drive? :confused:
[ October 07, 2003, 07:19 PM: Message edited by: need a faster boat ]
-
You should get the gasket kit and pull the drive off. It is very possible that it hasn't been serviced for a long while. The U joints need to be greased every 100 hours or each season.
That is what your symptoms sound like to me anyway...anyone else.
-
wierd noise...possible it could be the gimble bearing, they don't like to get wet...
-
speaking of servicing the outdrive, I'd like to pull my alpha 1 and replace the belows. How hard is that and what special tools do I need. I'm pretty mechanicaly inclined and think I can do it myself. Thanks for the advice!
-
I am reaching pretty far back in my memory banks here, I did it to my old Alpha years ago...but I don't think there are any special tools required. Hardest thing is getting the drive on and off. It is heavy and difficult to handle. That I remember clearly, the rest of the work is kind of foggy...Best to remove and replace it with two people so it doesn't get dropped.
-
With the drive in the up position undo the clamp on the drive bellows, gentle pry boot off the drive side. Lower the drive. The most important thing is to have the drive lever in forward position. Remove nut (1 only) from aft attachment point on the trim actuators, slide shaft off to one side - remove completely. Remove 6 nuts that hold the drive. Pull drive off, make sure shift cable seperates from drive. I have a jack for my atvs that I modified to help me with the drive. 2 guys are good to have for this job but one could do it. If you do not have a jack, a skateboard is a good height to stick under the skeg of the drive. When the drive is out, inspect the gimble u joints, if o.k. grease them. Use Mercury drive grease only, do not use trailer bearing grease. Check the gimble bearing for condition and play, if o.k. grease. If possible, borrow an alignment tool or use an old shaft to check the alignment of the engine to the drive. The shaft should slide in easy, with using only 2 fingers. Install new drive shaft bellows to the transom side (only). The shift cable bellows is recommended to change. If everything is o.k., buy an install kit. The install kit is under $10, includes gasket and seals. Attach the o-rings to the drive side with parker lube or vaseline. Install gasket to transom side. When installing the drive, have the other guy guide the shaft into the gimbal bearing. Wiggle the drive on until it fully seats. Install the 6 nuts that hold the drive. Attach the bellow to drive flange, tighten clamp. Apply a small amount of grease on shaft that holds the trim actuators. Slide through, install washers and nuts. Put shift lever into neutral. It is good to run the drive after these tasks are completed, check for leaks.
Before removing the drive, it is good to drain the gear oil. If there is something wrong (like metal shavings or milky white oil), you could take care of it when the drive is out. Hope this helps!
-
Formula Dude:
With the drive in the up position undo the clamp on the drive bellows, gentle pry boot off the drive side. Lower the drive. The most important thing is to have the drive lever in forward position. Remove nut (1 only) from aft attachment point on the trim actuators, slide shaft off to one side - remove completely. Remove 6 nuts that hold the drive. Pull drive off, make sure shift cable seperates from drive. I have a jack for my atvs that I modified to help me with the drive. 2 guys are good to have for this job but one could do it. If you do not have a jack, a skateboard is a good height to stick under the skeg of the drive. When the drive is out, inspect the gimble u joints, if o.k. grease them. Use Mercury drive grease only, do not use trailer bearing grease. Check the gimble bearing for condition and play, if o.k. grease. If possible, borrow an alignment tool or use an old shaft to check the alignment of the engine to the drive. The shaft should slide in easy, with using only 2 fingers. Install new drive shaft bellows to the transom side (only). The shift cable bellows is recommended to change. If everything is o.k., buy an install kit. The install kit is under $10, includes gasket and seals. Attach the o-rings to the drive side with parker lube or vaseline. Install gasket to transom side. When installing the drive, have the other guy guide the shaft into the gimbal bearing. Wiggle the drive on until it fully seats. Install the 6 nuts that hold the drive. Attach the bellow to drive flange, tighten clamp. Apply a small amount of grease on shaft that holds the trim actuators. Slide through, install washers and nuts. Put shift lever into neutral. It is good to run the drive after these tasks are completed, check for leaks.
Before removing the drive, it is good to drain the gear oil. If there is something wrong (like metal shavings or milky white oil), you could take care of it when the drive is out. Hope this helps! Good stuff Formula Dude. I did this about 14 years ago, and I completely forgot that you MUST have the drive in forward gear when you remove/replace it to line up the shift linkage. I still like the idea of using an assistant or mechanical device to hold the drive because of the weight and difficult lopsided shape.
-
thanks hows your boat doing?
-
You mean the new (Used) Ultra? The boat from 14 years ago was 4 boats ago...
[ October 13, 2003, 07:30 PM: Message edited by: Dr. Eagle ]
-
