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This question directed at 100 mph plus Hydro's and flats with wet sump oiling systems.
After a run and you are getting out of the throttle does your oil pressure dive (to zero or whatever)? Those that have the guts to look. :)
What oil pan do you have specifically?
Circle racer input would also be interesting as you guys would have to really have oil control for what you do.
The game here is I am trying to find out what wet sump oil pan is going to offer the best oil control for 150 to 160 mph drag Hydro. Thanks!
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Fiat48,
In my Pop's flatbottom (Pro-Eliminator/Top Alcohol Flat - best E.T. 6.99 : best M.P.H. 149) when I would let out of the gas at the end of the 1/4 mile, I would see the same thing EVERY TIME.
Before we switched over to a dry-sump system, we were using a Dan Olson wet-sump oil pan and a System-1 billet oil pump. It would have 0 psi registering on the Oil Pressure Gauge at the end of the pass. When I looked over and saw that, I would then "burp" the throttle once or twice and the oil pressure would then come back up to "normal" (100 + psi).
After we switched to a dry-sump system, we never had that problem again!!
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Give Jeff johnston of billettfab a call (805) 584-0428. He has the Baffle ball pans which work awesome for that problem!! Oh his work is awesome I purchased his fabricated valve covers cant say anything but good!! WWW.billetfab.com ;)
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Fiat48,
In my Pop's flatbottom (Pro-Eliminator/Top Alcohol Flat - best E.T. 6.99 : best M.P.H. 149) when I would let out of the gas at the end of the 1/4 mile, I would see the same thing EVERY TIME.
Before we switched over to a dry-sump system, we were using a Dan Olson wet-sump oil pan and a System-1 billet oil pump. It would have 0 psi registering on the Oil Pressure Gauge at the end of the pass. When I looked over and saw that, I would then "burp" the throttle once or twice and the oil pressure would then come back up to "normal" (100 + psi).
After we switched to a dry-sump system, we never had that problem again!!
Yeah...scary isn't it. I am dry sump also on the flat but still wonder if wet sump can be controlled enough. Especially since the Hydro glides a little better.
Flyte Risk:
Thanks and I will check that out.
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[QUOTE=Fiat48]Yeah...scary isn't it. I am dry sump also on the flat but still wonder if wet sump can be controlled enough. Especially since the Hydro glides a little better.
Fiat, The Hydro might glide a little better but in most cases it's going faster at the finish which in turn will pull more negative G's for the same stopping distance, especially at the chute tug if you have one.
The point you bring up brings back a lot of memories as I was able to live on the wet sump as a 470 motor in CF, but switching to 500 with a little more compression it killed the bearings and had to switch to the dry sump. Grimes comment at that time was "you can hang 9 toes of a cliff ledge but you are more apt to fall when the 10th toe is hangin also".
Dry Sump!!!!!!!
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Fiat,
I've got and 8 sec Kurtis 500. 505 BA Chevy. I've got the same dealio as you're talking about. 0 oil pressure as soon as I let off the throttle. I have a Dan Olson oil pan on that baby. I usually try to blip the throttle like PE316 was talking about or just cut off the motor all together and wait till it settles back down in the water. Been doing it for 8 years and guess I've been lucky no bearing or crank problems. Freshen up every 2 years. I have gotten to be a believer in Lucas Oil Treatment, Put in a quart every oil change, which is after every weekend of racing. Lots of alcohol contamination also.
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Friend ran a stock Olson on a C&H hydro. Went mid 7's 150'S best of 162 with carbed 468. Oil pressure went low but ran the thing 3 seasons and sold it to a guy who ran it in a car for years with out a refresh.
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In the drag car I quit buying high dollar pans because the baffling didn't work and bought cheap pans and did my own trapping to control oil when the chute came out. Hate to go through that again for this hydro.
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We ran a 8 sec. flat for a few years tried several different pans including a billet fab.Same thing with each pan,few seconds w/low or no pressure on deccel. our solution (or bandaid)was to install an idiot light in front of the driver with a 20lb. sender and told the driver to stay off the gas when the light was on.A few seconds of low pressure with no load never showed any bearing issues.
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and told the driver to stay off the gas when the light was on.A few seconds of low pressure with no load never showed any bearing issues.
You know, I read above where some folks were saying that they blip the gas to try and get pressure back. That just sounds like bad news. Correct me if I'm wrong here....