Reply With QuoteSay it with me.
My name is Dan and im a jet-boat-aholic.
LOL.
Ive been thinking about that myself. How much speed have some of you guys gained by blueprinting your bottoms?
Once upon a time...............there was a really nice set of instructions on the internet regarding bottom blueprinting. I think it was showing some of Jeff Bennett's work. I'd be very interested in a link to the information, if anybody could provide it. I used to have it saved to my harddrive, but that drive has since crashed and I lost everything.
I'm not trying to take food off Jeff's table, but I can't afford the going rate for a bottom blueprinting, and would like to take a stab at it myself.
Thanks in advance to anyone who could/would supply the link.
Say it with me.
My name is Dan and im a jet-boat-aholic.
LOL.
Ive been thinking about that myself. How much speed have some of you guys gained by blueprinting your bottoms?
I think Jeff's get a lot more detailed but to get a basic here you go!
Mark a X 5 foot forward from the transom center of the keel line.
Take a chalk snap line and hold at the X point. Now pull the snap line from the X point to each outsidecorner of the transom and snap it.
when you have done this you will have a delta design laid out on your bottom. This is your primary running surface on your boat.
Take a straight edge and slide it (running same as the keel line) over the entire surface within the delta. any low spots or concave are suction points in your bottom. 99.99% of all boats have them, caused from the boat molds getting hot, or just trailer setting over time.
Grease or pencil mark the low spots.
Sand scuff or scar in and around these spots for your filler.
I would recommend a filler like Mar Glass (a bondo like agent with fiberglass fibers added) or any other similar product. Some even lay fiberglass over it as the filler. I don't think its necessary yet it is correct also, many will use bondo only. I like to use the Mar Glass and detail finish with bondo on the small holes after.
As you are filling you want to keep working your bottom with a long board sander between each dry coat for maintaining your straight line and running your straight edge for verification.
If you use Mar Glass as the bulk fill you will have small holes from heat - Use bondo to fill these holes and increase your sanding grit # as you go to finish.
Rough scar in 30-60 grit
Rough Flat Block in 60-80 while shaping
flat block 120
flat block 220 for finish.
primer or seal
finish sand
Gel Coat/Paint or speed coat.
WaLa you is a pro! Good Luck its easy!
Originally posted by Taylorman
Say it with me.
My name is Dan and im a jet-boat-aholic.
LOL.
Ive been thinking about that myself. How much speed have some of you guys gained by blueprinting your bottoms?
What? Who? Me?
You must have me confused with someone else there buddy.
The way I see it...........it's the only thing I haven't done to my ride in the quest for speed. If I can pull it off myself, it'll be cheap speed. Could possibly be the bestest thing I ever did. I know the bottom's a mess. I've been under it with a straight edge quite a number of times trying to convince myself that it's not hurting me any. I know it is though.
When I bought the boat, it was sitting with the transom hanging about a foot off the trailer bunks and we all know how good that is for em!
It's gonna be a winter project, and I'm just trying to get my ducks in a line prior to doing it.
Alright fine....................maybe I have a slight dependency problem?
Thanks Dave that info is helpful.
make sure you flip the boat too. This job would not be fun lying on your back.
Damn thats my winter project also, along with fixing up my trailer...When you flip the boat can you set it on some old tires or will that tweek the hull?
you can set the boat on tires, just make sure you use enough of them. A better way is to use the stringers for support-thats what I did. Some jack stands placed strategically worked very well. I also supported the bow and a couple of other places just to be safe. Have fun, boats aren't fun to flip. I flipped mine 4 times-im glad its over with. If anyone has any questions-let me know.
Its the worth the $1500+ to have it done. Its a lot of work and you can do as much harm as good.
Jeff Bennett did mine for $1600 and it only took about 1 1/2 days
Jack stands on the stringers, unless I am thinking about it wrong. I am not sure if they would reach. did you use cinder blocks under them. Also how many people on average does it take to flip a low profile boat, with the engine out of course
Originally posted by GM Killer
Its the worth the $1500+ to have it done. Its a lot of work and you can do as much harm as good.
Jeff Bennett did mine for $1600 and it only took about 1 1/2 days
Quite honestly.............no. I'd have to tow the boat out to Cali and leave it, or stay there while he does it.
I really don't think I could hurt it any more than it already is (aside of maybe knocking a king sized hole through the bottom).
I believe that as long as I take my time, It'll be fine. Granted it wouldn't be as professional as if Mr. Bennett had done it, but I've got so much hook, I'm confident that I can make it better than it is now.
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