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Thread: jet boat cooling water plumbing

  1. #1
    jwbbuck
    Can anyone suggest a source with information concerning plumbing the cooling system for my thermostat controlled system? I've got a BBC with Berkeley JG. I'm using the 4 outlet thermostat housing with a thermostat, 4-way plastic diverter and spring installed. I've got water injected Rewarders, but I don't know how to plumb the whole thing up. There are so many hoses that I'm hoping to find a diagram rather than a text explanation. Any suggestions?

  2. #2
    spectras only
    Go back to page #15 ,you'll find the info there ,under plumbing for thermostat cooling!

  3. #3
    custom-cruiser
    In the REX MARINE catalog #11-1 on page 96 they have a pretty simple diagram. Their # is 909-392-7300 or http://www.rexmar.com
    good luck! http://free.***boat.net/ubb/biggrin.gif
    I have it copied so if you send a fax # i'll shoot it to you.
    [This message has been edited by custom-cruiser (edited September 18, 2001).]

  4. #4
    LVjetboy
    Here's more ideas. I prefer to regulate flow prior to the block instead of valves on the dump lines. With this setup, you can keep block pressures down and still run proper cooling temps:
    DragnCooling (http://www.angelfire.com/extreme2/dr...ngDiagram.html)
    Also the 1/4 balls help balance flow to headers...
    jer

  5. #5
    Never Enough PGJ
    if you don't reguate the block preasure you are looking for problems!

  6. #6
    jwbbuck
    thanks, a ton, for the diagram. What is the purpose of the plastic stem inside the thermostat housing? and the spring? I only have one place to dump water overboard. Is there a reason why I would want or need to use 2? Could I just plug one of the lower outlets on the therm. housing? Originally posted by LVjetboy:
    Here's more ideas. I prefer to regulate flow prior to the block instead of valves on the dump lines. With this setup, you can keep block pressures down and still run proper cooling temps:
    DragnCooling (http://www.angelfire.com/extreme2/dr...ngDiagram.html)
    Also the 1/4 balls help balance flow to headers...
    jer

  7. #7
    phillyray
    Go with LV's set up,trust me it works great...2 water dumps out the boat!!! It's no big deal to add one more.One help full hint...keep all the water hoses going into the block (side by side) out of the block, out to the back the same length. Be cautious of those water psi. regulators, if always used in shallow water the may become clogged.

  8. #8
    Clutch
    Het LV
    Are you running a thermo in the tower?

  9. #9
    jwbbuck
    LV, I was planning on it. The setup before I bought the boat used a 160F. What is the plastic piece inside the tower for? What is the suggested water pressure in the block while running? I'm thinking about using a guage. Originally posted by Clutch:
    Het LV
    Are you running a thermo in the tower?

  10. #10
    LVjetboy
    NeverEnough,
    You're right, regulating block pressure is a must...good point. Of course, unlike a car, limiting to 15 psi or below is driven by the radiator design limits, N/A for a jet...no radiator. However, the head gasket pressure limit is a factor. I've read (other board...racer) that 30 psi inlet or below may be ok for a BB jet. The reasoning behind the "above 15 psi" pressure is to increase boiling temps and reduce hot spots in the heads. But I run mine well below this pressure and all is good.
    Jwbbuck,
    The purpose of the plastic stem, valve and spring in the thermostat housing is to regulate block pressure. As the thermostat opens, it increases spring pressure on the plastic valve, reducing bypass water to the exit lines, thus convincing more cooling flow through the engine...and keeping temps more stable.
    I would recommend using two dump lines as Phillyray suggests, protecting against restricting exit flow to the point that you build engine coolant pressure and blow a gasket...peace of mind. A gage is fine, but I put one on my boat as an experiment (ok, in response to questions on the other board) and found with idle temps at 180, my full thottle pressures were less than 10 psi. Even with a full open ball valve off the pump feed, I had less than 30 psi inlet. But this is with twin dumps and line sizes per my web site. So twin dumps are good.
    Clutch,
    Yes I run a Rex thermo in the tower. Gives more even running and idle temps.
    Lastly jwbbuck, don't forget to open your pump inlet valve and check you temps after any modifications and first time on the lake...Murphey's law ya' know.
    jer

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