When tightening the bolts on the prop coupler should the coupler be completely closed when you are done? I am putting mine back together and using a small allen wrench I can't get it completely closed. Should I get a socket and really torque it until it closes? It looks like I may have a misalignment problem between the two shafts. The prop shaft is straight and everything was put back using the same hardware so I don't know where the misalignment would come from, but when I rotate the shaft by hand it looks like a slight offcenter up and down movement. The center plate on the drive appears to be leaning forward slightly. Should I shim it to make it plum with the bottom of the boat?
The coupler won't close all the way. You will be able to see both shafts when you look down the split.
The mounting plates will lean forward for the most part. That angle would change with different strut angles. As far as lining up the shafts to each other I'll let one of the experts give you the scoop on that one.
Micky, yes the shafts MUST line up. The up and down movement you're seeing is a bent shaft. As the forward containment of the shaft depends on the shaft log seal housing, which is normally mounted in a piece of rubber hose, the only thing keeping the shaft aligned is straighteness. The v drive output shaft is a solid mounted rotating assembly, so unless the output bearing is fried, the wobble your seeing has to be a prop shaft problem. The mount for the v drive, mounted between the stringers, and responsible to accept, and contain, the forward thrust of the prop, and use that thrust to propel the boat forward, takes a great deal of abuse. It is not unusual to have bent/broken pieces in this area of a boat that has a bunch of power pushing it forward. This is why most setups have struts tying the mounting plate to the stringers somewhere aft of the actual v drive mounting plate. Think about it, all the forward thrust of the prop is delivered straight into the v drive, which is attached to the boat at the stringers, and I've seen the plate as thin as 1/4 inch. I hope this helps you..........Moneypitt
PS: The shafts MUST butt up to each other, solid, no gap.....
The HD Casale Couplers (and others) are bored about .060 off center to compenste for balance of the split (missing material). If you have such a coupler you WILL SEE the coupler itself with a slight wobble. This is normal with this type of coupler.
If they were bored on center they would be out of balance and vibrate (but would not wobble to the eye).
If the "shaft" itself is wobbling that would indicate a bent shaft. You normally would see that mid-shaft, not adjacent to the coupler.
And no you will not be able to close the split up completely.
Make sure to replace the bolt's your using if they have been around for along time. I've seen them break numerous times due to age and that can be a bitch to try and get them out. One other thing Mickey, I run hardened bolt's not stainless, stainless is to soft. Buy the hardened bolt's, paint them black so they don't rust, put a dab of anti-seez on them and install. You shouldn't have a problem and it's cheap insurance. Just my .02.
Bullshit!
Xlent advice from Billy there, never use ss bolts on driveline or driveshaft related stuff. Stainless is pretty but has low strength and is easy to shear. Always use Gr 8 or better.
Hey Mike (REX), not to hijack the thread but I came across something that made me think of you yesterday, and no it wasn't a chiapet, (Mikes old hair style). A copy of Race Boat and industry news with the Trojan Ghost on the cover. Nice boat Chief, bet you still wish you had it.
Originally posted by BILLY.B
no it wasn't a chiapet, (Mikes old hair style).
Asshole.
(now updated to late model modified-mullet)
Originally posted by Rexone
Asshole.
Your low brow comeback made my opinion of you plummet.
Is that anyway for our star moderator to talk?
Brian
(shattered)
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote