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Thread: Trident Boats Engine #1

  1. #31
    DogHouse
    Fiat, that's a good idea, but I'm not sure what else we could do. My motor idles with plenty of pressure (40 hot, 60 warm, 80 cold), has a 4.5" crank (lots of splash!), and ~260-270 on the seat (kinda normal for a solid roller). This one failed at about 50 hours. The one before it failed at about 10 hours. Valves always adjusted, no signs of hammering on rockers or pushrods. I'm done with solid rollers in a pleasure motor, too much time idling in the channel I guess. Time to back off on the combo and just enjoy. Either that or find a better lifter, like maybe some hemi size Jesels, or Shubecks, or ???
    -brian

  2. #32
    Fiat48
    Sounds like you have covered the bases. Comp is making a severe duty lifter that has a slot cut in it for better oiling. Trying these in a daycruiser now, but the jury is still out. I also use an old LS-7 valley tray that helps serve as a drip rail for the rollers while keeping hot oil off the intake manifold.
    I've always used Comps rollers and the only failure I have had was the Daycruiser. But he idled for hours on end and the rollers went dry. The new ones are Comp's answer to the problem.

  3. #33
    Infomaniac
    Have not seen much problem with hydraulic rollers of any brand.
    These have larger wheels and the valving allows more spring seat pressure.

  4. #34
    DogHouse
    Originally posted by Infomaniac
    Have not seen much problem with hydraulic rollers of any brand.
    These have larger wheels and the valving allows more spring seat pressure.
    That's good to hear. I guess I should consider the Isky hydraulics but you know how it goes after you've had some failures. Best of luck with your deal, didn't mean to hijack your thread!
    -brian

  5. #35
    flat broke
    Brian,
    What's your max RPM? A lot of time seat pressures are based off of setups that run much higher RPMs than our boats. Think about what you would shift that motor at in a car... Because we don't spin em as high, we also don't need as much tension to keep em in check at the RPMs we're never going to see. Perhaps a lower spring rate, or taller installed height to drop the seated pressure so that there isn't as much strain at low RPM when there is little oil floating around to lube that stuff. I think you use Peto, so talk to him and see what he thinks.
    BTW, if you do go hydrualic, you're going to have to lower your spring rates anyways. Then you have to ask about the ramp profile of your stick to see how gentle it would be with the hydraulic rollers.
    Sorry to hear about your motor. With all the problems you had last year, it sucks to see you start off the same way this year. Hopefully you can get it ironed out soon and enjoy the rest of the summer.
    Chris

  6. #36
    Blown 472
    Originally posted by Infomaniac
    My camera will not zoom in like that. It is my camcorder that takes still pics also.
    The engine is done anyway. I need to finish posting the rest. The angle cutter cuts away material behind the seat. Opens the pocket up to about the diameter of the seat opening.
    And thats all you do to the heads?

  7. #37
    HighRoller
    We will be de-tuning the boat to run 70 flat stock. Is that with the Dual Jet or Outdrive? You mentioned abusing some "drives" so I had to ask..what drive system is the prototype going to use?

  8. #38
    Infomaniac
    It will be a dual jet drive.

  9. #39
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    883
    The best hyd. roller is the Morel piece. These are the guys that solved the fuel teams problems with eating lifters on the exhast side and replacing the existing brand lifters ever other pass. The Morels will go a season. They introduced a hyd. roller 2 years ago with improved valving, fully machined body, and stiffer spring for more rpm.
    Info looks good.
    Chris

  10. #40
    ROZ
    Info, When's the delivery date?... I wanna make sure I'm at Wes's secret hideout when the baby you two have spawned comes home

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