Reply With QuoteIm dont know anything othr than what Ive been told- Sleeves installed properly work fine. Im not certain I would feel safe with them in a high performance build in a block that was not designed to be run with sleeves...
I read a "sales pitch" in the PAW (Performance Automotive Warehouse) catalog in which they said that you could re-sleeve all of your cylinders (ie big block chevy) and have them honed back to the original bore to exactly, if not better than stock.
This was a company was advertising and their pitch was that since you block is seasoned, it will be better than a new block (providing that there is nothing else wrong with it). Additionally, they were saying that the sleves are of a better quality metal than the cast block.
Does this make sense? I know this is basically what is done with the aluminum blocks but can it work the same for the big iron blocks? :coffeycup
Thanks.
Brendan
Im dont know anything othr than what Ive been told- Sleeves installed properly work fine. Im not certain I would feel safe with them in a high performance build in a block that was not designed to be run with sleeves...
Sleeves In a Marine Motor Are Not A good Idea.
They Have Moved On a Couple Of motors That I have Put Together
/Would Not Recomend That for any thing But a Stock Rebuild.
On a BBC they're ok for the street but not in a performace application, the decks are too thin and the block will split to a head bolt, happened to me twice. It works in a Ford though because they have a thick deck, I took an FE and sleeved all 8 cylinders and ran 13 to 1 with no problems!..
On a BBC they're ok for the street but not in a performace application, the decks are too thin and the block will split to a head bolt, happened to me twice. It works in a Ford though because they have a thick deck, I took an FE and sleeved all 8 cylinders and ran 13 to 1 with no problems!..
The Pro Stock guys that ran 351C Fords in the 70s oven brazed 8 sleeves in the block because the cylinders were thin and couldn't handle the overbore and 15 to 1 c/r. 2 sleeves side by side is not recommended but 2 sleeves in opposite banks can be ok. Also it depends on why you need to sleeve. If its for a rusted or worn cylinder but still intact the sleeve will be fine but if you are repairing a holed or cracked cylinder the deck may be too weak to support the cylinder.
I've had blocks sleeved before. Usually due to pin holing in the cylinder.
I hate to start with a sleeved block. Usually I sleeve one to get by and finish a season. And on blown alchol, I have split sleeves. So I wouldn't want to start out that way.
PS racing is a different dealio all together.
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