Reply With QuoteDamn, now the boat will be 10 mph slower than yesterday. :2purples:
Blown amp too? Maybe you need to downgrade to the PHXATC special. :shift:
You gonna get the amp replaced too?
I blew a 12" JBL GTI subwoofer. I have 4 in my boat and I also think one of my 2200 watt JBL amps went bad. What's with a company putting "4000 Watts" in large bold print on the woofer cone, when 1100 watts RMS blows the hell out of it? Kind of mad since I haven't used it a lot and I pulled it out of the garage today and palyed the system, only to have the subs cut out at high volume because of the blown subs.
Damn, now the boat will be 10 mph slower than yesterday. :2purples:
Blown amp too? Maybe you need to downgrade to the PHXATC special. :shift:
You gonna get the amp replaced too?
What I don't understand is that last time out, I was pounding the crap out of the system at the lake, put the boat back int he garage and all was well. When I turned the system on last week, no go at more than 35% volume for the subs. The highs work fine.
I am running all JBL power with 2-2200's for the subs and 2-1100's for the highs. One woofer was blown and I'm guessing there may be more, but an amp may also be bad. Does this sound right?
What I don't understand is that last time out, I was pounding the crap out of the system at the lake, put the boat back int he garage and all was well. When I turned the system on last week, no go at more than 35% volume for the subs. The highs work fine.
I am running all JBL power with 2-2200's for the subs and 2-1100's for the highs. One woofer was blown and I'm guessing there may be more, but an amp may also be bad. Does this sound right?
There are several possibilities:
1. your enclosure is constructed in a way that prevents proper airflow into the sub's motor assembly.
2. A bad amp like you said.
3. Voice coils wired incorrectly (will blow sub and/or amp)
4. Enclosure specifications beyond the scope of the sub's specifications. A poorly tuned ported enclosure will dramatically decrease the sub's power handling capabilities at frequencies beyond the sub and enclosure's combined frequency curve.
Hope this sheds some light on your dilemma. If you give me a little more info about your system I can give you a more accurate diagnosis.
I'll add that if you blew one...depending on how they are wired...it can affect more than one.
Heat kills them.
4. Enclosure specifications beyond the scope of the sub's specifications. A poorly tuned ported enclosure will dramatically decrease the sub's power handling capabilities at frequencies beyond the sub and enclosure's combined frequency curve.
Also would like to add that eliminating the frequencies on the low end of the curve with a subsonic filter will help lenghten the life of your subwoofer.
B-Ron,
I am wondering if the battery that supplies the deck with power is low. If that is the case, would this happen. I am using a rockford deck and changer. All amps are on a different set of batteries from the deck and remainder of the boat(amps have their own batteries).
The enclosure is the same that they have built for multiple systems, and this is the only one having problems, so I hope it's not the box.
If it was wired wrong, would it rock for 2-3 months and then go bad?
Here is what I have. 2 JBL 1100's running 12 NKD116 MB Quart. 2 JBL 2200's running 4 12"GTI subs. Rockford deck.
RMS on those subs is 700 watts.... :cry:
RMS on those subs is 700 watts.... :cry:
Nice, and they put on bold print on the cone "4000 Watts"
So, I'll blow 12 spekaers during the warranty period and then tell JBL to shove it.
I think you should just try some better amps. check this out...
BPX2200.1
Power Output: 650 watts RMS x 2 channel at 4 ohms
and ≤ 1% THD + N
2450 watts RMS x 1 channel at 4 ohms,
14.4V supply and ≤ 1% THD + N
1810 watts RMS x 1 channel at 1 ohm,
14.4V supply and ≤ 1% THD + N
Signal-to-Noise Ratio: 67 dBA (reference 1 watt into 4 ohms)
Dynamic Power: 2940 watts at 4 ohms
Effective Damping Factor: 6.28 at 4 ohms
Frequency Response: 22Hz 302Hz (-3dB)
Maximum Input Signal: 7 V
Maximum Sensitivity: 250 mV
Output Regulation: .12 dB at 4 ohms
These amps seem to be full of distortion. Especially if your subs are wired parallel, giving you roughly a 1.5 ohm load mono per amp (dual 6 ohm voice coils, right?). If the signal to noise ratio is 67 dBA at 4 ohms (not to mention only tested at 1 watt) then at 1.5 ohms cranking for hours in the heat, your subs could have easily been blown due to a very dirty signal. They may be able to handle 4000 watts, but there are a lot of factors involved... clean musical watts vs. thermal and distorted watts. So basically, these subs were pounded on for months with a 'junk food diet'.
Also check out that damping factor spec. these amps don't control the sub very well at all.
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