Reply With QuoteI understand what you're trying to say about under powering a subwoofer, but you may want to rephrase with greater headroom. The way you've written it sounds like playing at low volume will kill a sub... Not the case :rollside:
I want it to be super, freakin, out of control, stupid loudSomething like that. Space is not my issue.
Then go with 2 15's in sealed enclosures. I say use 2 Kicker L5 15's but that's a biased opinion since that's what we sell. Power them with a good 1000 watts each (btw, underpowering a sub will kill it). 2 of any of these amps will do:
Kicker 1200.1
PPI DCX 1500.1
JL Audio 1000/1
Rockford Fosgate Power T20001bd
etc...
I recommend 2 Kicker 1200.1 for 2 15" L5, biased, again...but I know it works and sounds great. Put them in a sealed enclosure. You'll also want to look into a single 10" or 2 8" to play the low-mid-bass range. If you want I can draw up a layout of what I would do. Feel free to email me if that's something you'd be interested in.
I understand what you're trying to say about under powering a subwoofer, but you may want to rephrase with greater headroom. The way you've written it sounds like playing at low volume will kill a sub... Not the case :rollside:
I understand what you're trying to say about under powering a subwoofer, but you may want to rephrase with greater headroom. The way you've written it sounds like playing at low volume will kill a sub... Not the case :rollside:
Ok, here's the lowdown on how speakers and amplifiers work together...
An amplifier's damping factor is how well the amplifier can control the speaker. It does so by reversing polarity. By sending a pulse of electricity linear to the leads (positive to positive and negative to negative), the speaker is pushed outwards. Then that pulse is reversed, positive to negative and negative to positive, and the speaker pulls back into itself. Now remember that these pulses are actually taking place between 10 and 30,000 times per second (10 Hz - 30 kHz), so it's pretty critical. How well the amplifier can do this is rated in a specification called 'damping factor'. As an amplifier's output increases, this damping factor gets worse (it's not linear, but for example's sake let's just say it is). So imagine a small 200 watt amplifier trying to power a 15" sub with a 1000 watts RMS, the amplifier has to try it's hardest to move that sub, throwing out the window all ability to control the sub. As a result you get very sloppy cone movement, kinda like a piston rattling around in the cylinder wall of an engine. We all know what that does, it blows the motor. Exactly in this case, the speaker's motor assembly gets overheated from the added friction, and voila, the speaker is now damaged. Let's add in another factor... cooling. Let's say the added heat doesn't damage the speaker, it survives, because it can handle 4000 watts! But when you shut the system down, the motor assembly cools down so rapidly that it worps! Same thing happens when your car is overheated but still runs, once you shut it down, good luck getting it to start again.
Hope that clarifies things.
Ummm, so last time I was at the lake and playing the system, it got hot and in the cooling process, it got jacked up causing my problems that I have now?
Ummm, so last time I was at the lake and playing the system, it got hot and in the cooling process, it got jacked up causing my problems that I have now?
From the info you gave me, that is definately a possibility.
I think the DF is one of those buzz words..... I know that it's a measured spec, but I don't think a person could audibly tell the differece solely based on a high vs low spec given all things are exactly the same....
I'm pretty sure that there are tests that have proven so, as well. Most amps good amps whouldn't have a problem controlling the driver...
I think that there are other factors that are much more criticle when designing an SQ vehicle.
I think the DF is one of those buzz words..... I know that it's a measured spec, but I don't think a person could audibly tell the differece solely based on a high vs low spec given all things are exactly the same....
I'm pretty sure that there are tests that have proven so, as well. Most amps good amps whouldn't have a problem controlling the driver...
I think that there are other factors that are much more criticle when designing an SQ vehicle.
Shockingly enough...I agree with Roz. "Damping Facor" is a voodoo buzzword, with no audible difference in amplifiers.
Anyone speaking about DF is probably trying to sell you something.
http://groups.google.com/groups?q=da...rol.com&rnum=1
http://groups.google.com/groups?q=da...rol.com&rnum=2
http://www.trueaudio.com/post_013.htm
You guys are right, it is one of those buzz words that salesmen pitch at customers. It was really big in the 90s, every amp manufacturer used it as a spec.
Just to clarify, I wasn't emphasizing DF's importance, I just used it to better clarify what I meant when I said underpowering a sub will blow it. I agree DF is a useless spec. The only time DF has any significance is when you've run into a problem. Like underpowering a sub (which is also overloading an amp). Or when amps overheat. But who cares how well your amp plays when it's about to go into protect mode.
...what I meant when I said underpowering a sub will blow it.
How can underpowing a sub blow it?
How can underpowing a sub blow it?
Ususally when you under power a sub the distortion levels are going to be significantley higher and when speakers play at high distortion levels the speaker life seems to be shortened. In the experiences I have had it seems it is always better to overpower than underpower. You can always turn too much down, but cant turn too little up.
Posting Permissions