Reply With Quoteall depends on how the motor is mounted in the boat. other then that its easy
Has anyone had to replace a flexplate because some teeth are ground off?
How big a deal is it to do on a 454?
all depends on how the motor is mounted in the boat. other then that its easy
heat up the outer ring - tap it off - get new ring heat it up press it on - then take and get it balancedeasier to buy a new one
Hey bro, 180 degrees out had to do that on his BBC 454, its not to hard the only pain is pullin the engine, after that its really simple. Just make sure you install the new one on right, we found out there is such a thing as installin them on backwards.
Thanks for the replies.
Would a stock flex plate from AutoZone work or does it have to be SFI? It's basically a stock motor with a mild cam.
First, a FLEX PLATE does not have replacable starter grear ring. It is welded on. Only the heavy flywheels have those kind.
Second, NO!!! an Auto Zone flex plate will do just what the name implies. It WILL FLEX. They are made to get their strength from boltinig to a torque converter. Get an SFI or better Heavy, (thicker), flex plate from a reputible manufactruer or you may just be grinding up another one. We have the good ones in stock.
Wont be tough. If you have a four point mount you can leave the motor in the boat. May even work with a 3 point. Remove the universal joint,use a cherry picker or other support to brace the rear of the motor, take the rear mount off, yank the flex plate, and reassemble with a new one from Duane. Will probably need to find a way to keep the motor from turning over when attempting to remove the bolts and when torquing them back on.
What about loosening the forward motor mount bolts, taking out the back bolts, jacking the motor up enough to take out the back bolts and let the oil pan rest on a 1x4 at the back????
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...1/DCP_1305.jpg
Here's the flex plate showing the teeth chewed up. What would cause this?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...1/DCP_1309.jpg
Thanks for your help!
I wouldn't rest the weight of the motor on the oil pan. If you dont want to use the cherry picker(pain in the ass if you ask me, cut up some 2x4 and wedge them onto your stringers and have the ears of the block sit on them, that should do it. You can loosen the fornt mounts if you want, but theres nothing really to pry on to lift the rear. If you use the 2x4 idea you will really need to get them wedged in there before you loosen the rear mount.
Is the starter shimmed at all? Looks like the gears aren't hitting square when it's actuating? Either that or is the flex plate on backwards. I beliebve the one side has a taper while the other side is flat. The taper allows the gear to slide in while starting. Just my 2 cents.
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