Reply With QuoteI think I would double up on the bunks. If you used spacers would the old bolts be long enought or would you need to buy new.
mario
The previous idiot that owned my boat got a newer double axle and welded the bunk supports too low on the trailer. Now the boats keel is touching the trailer. I don't like to drive the boat back on to the trailer because it hits it, the keel shows wear. I'm thinking of adding another roller underneath the keel in the front but I would also like to raise the bunks. I have two options that I thought of: make 1 1/2 inch spacers (aluminum?) to lift under the bunks on all 4 corners, or just double up on the wooden bunks. What works best? Any other ideas? Thanks fellas!
I think I would double up on the bunks. If you used spacers would the old bolts be long enought or would you need to buy new.
mario
Mario, I went an bought new bolts in anticipation, they would need to be replaced for either technique.
I had the same problem Chestah. I just doubled up on the runners and used longer lag bolts.
Beached1, any special technique used to double up? Did you just put plain old wood underneath the existing bunks and thats it? Also, what is the best way to lift the boat high enough to do this, car jacks? Placement? Any tips would be helpful. Thanks!
CC, iwould think the spacers would work just fine and probably much easyer. has anyone ever moved the axles on there trailer? i want to move mine back, the tounge weight on my trailer is very light( i can pick it upwith one hand) i wondering if it is really that hard to do?
Huster
I live close to the Polio Pond aka. Lake Paris, CA. So I just took it over there and launched the boat and pulled out my Dewalt corldless and started cuttin some new boards right in the parking lot. I used 2X6's and nailed them together with galvanized 8 penny, maybe it was 10 but the idea was to just get the boards to stay together for the re-carpet process. I then used new stainless lag bolts that were 3 1/2" long to fasten them to the L brakets on the trailer. The 3 1/2" lags are what are really holding the two pieces of wood together not so much as the nails. Just make sure the nails are "Hot Galvanized" They fight rust better than most others. I picked everything up at Ace Hardware, including the new outdoor carpet. Also, make sure you use stainless staples for the carpet. Good luck!
Hey Chestah, if you plan on keeping the boat and trailer for some time use preasure treated 2x6's or 2x4's (whichever size it uses), it will last alot longer. I used preasure treated 2x6's on mine and I also sealed them w/ resin, and then carpeted them using contact cement and stainless staples. I know it sound like overkill but hey who cares http://free.***boat.net/ubb/biggrin.gif Anyway if it was me i would probably use the block method just because it might look a little cleaner.
Chris
Just be careful, when you use spacers or blocks to increase the height, the distance between the bunks decreases because the bunks are on an angle. Your boat may not fit correctly when your are done.
Originally posted by Hustler:
has anyone ever moved the axles on there trailer? i want to move mine back, the tounge weight on my trailer is very light( i can pick it upwith one hand) i wondering if it is really that hard to do?
Hustler,
Been there, done that. I had an old Trail-Rite that had about 40lbs of tounge weight- not good. It turned out that moving the axles was such a pain on an old, rusting trailer, that a new one wasn't much more.
Now I can pull 70MPH all day long, if I wasn't busy obeying the speed limit. http://www.goldenplasma.f2s.com/foru...es/happy06.gif
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