I sure hope i can have this fixed :frown: These are some clean ass heads!!
396
I bought some heads from a fellow board member and they looked really nice. The even been cleaned up in the combuistion area Finally I foun a set of heads that ive been looking for. I was looking them over and this is the bullshit I found
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/...39CRACKED2.JPG
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/...39CRACKED2.JPG
I sure hope i can have this fixed :frown: These are some clean ass heads!!
396
First contact FED EX for package insurance. Save the box.
Iron heads are heavy, and prone to damage this way. Next time more padding,
kinda like a Jr High prom dress.
Not the best way, but if the crack is only across the valve cover area, just braze it from the inside and machine the valve cover seal flat again.
Along the same lines, I recieved in a YZF 450 motor last week or so, the carrier dropped it, and damaged the packaging so bad that THEY reboxed it before I recieved it.
The motor was pretty well padded, so it must have fell a good distance.
Anyway, the area around the kickstarter was completely broke off. Talk about dissapointing.
Brian
we've had bad experiences with them...
they'll tell you they're sorry...
I had a machine shop drop a nice 4 blt main block and broke the entire front support area out (support for the front of the intake manifold.) That was that...it went under the bench to become a mock up block.
Years later, I took a wire feed welder and welded the piece back in place...using short bursts..letting it cool. The initial plan was to tack it best I could, then try JB weld. I was surprised to see no cracking in the welding or in front of the welding. So, I would up welding the whole thing in place and we've never had a problem with that block.
No warranty expressed or implied...but that is what I would do.
The way we always welded cast iron parts when we were out in the middle of nowhere with a paving crew was to get them glowing red hot with a rosebud tip on an oxy-acetylene rig and then stick weld them. I'm sure you could accomplish the same results with a wire feed as it's not a crucial area, but it still sucks. :frown:
I'd hold fed-ex's feet to the fire for a while on this one.
The way we always welded cast iron parts when we were out in the middle of nowhere with a paving crew was to get them glowing red hot with a rosebud tip on an oxy-acetylene rig and then stick weld them. I'm sure you could accomplish the same results with a wire feed as it's not a crucial area, but it still sucks. :frown:
I'd hold fed-ex's feet to the fire for a while on this one.
Oh believe that i will have someones ass on monday.I think it can be repaired,like you said its not in a crutial spot.
396
Do you (or any of your crew) have anything that floats? I'm hitting the lake tomorrow. Figured out why the boat was only spinning 6K last time we were out. Apparently the msd rev limiter pill was doing it's jobby job.
Well if you really wanted to get serious, NYROD, or NIROD. I don't know the correct spelling.
It is a nickel based alloy used to stickweld cast iron together. Not cheap, and hard to do. The preheat deal is necessary also. A good welder can take care of this for you.
I suggested the braze deal because anyone can do it.
Brian
Do you (or any of your crew) have anything that floats? I'm hitting the lake tomorrow. Figured out why the boat was only spinning 6K last time we were out. Apparently the msd rev limiter pill was doing it's jobby job.
my boat floats but i dont have a paddle yet