Reply With QuoteWet Dream, there's about four different posts going on regarding 460 build ups and issues. I would bet any question you have is answered somewhere in those posts.
I'm just looking for general info on this block. What can be expected and any downfalls? Lakes, what ya got?
Block DIVE6015-A2B
Rods D6VE-AA
I couldn't find any numbers on the heads, but they have huge intakes compared to the exhaust and round intake ports, oval exh.
Wet Dream, there's about four different posts going on regarding 460 build ups and issues. I would bet any question you have is answered somewhere in those posts.
I'm just looking for general info on this block. What can be expected and any downfalls? Lakes, what ya got?
Block DIVE6015-A2B
Rods D6VE-AA
I couldn't find any numbers on the heads, but they have huge intakes compared to the exhaust and round intake ports, oval exh.
Generally speaking, the block you have is a perfectly fine block.
The rods you have are Ford's truck rods and they are damn-near identical to the Cobra Jet rods (interchangable).
Judging by the two casting numbers you posted, I'm taking a wild guess this is a factory 460 marine engine.
The head casting number is located on the oustide of the head, along the valve cover and between the 3rd and 4th exhaust ports. Again, based on your other numbers, I bet your head casting is D3VE-A2A. If it is, it also might be better/have an advantage over most of the pass car D3VE's.
LO
Whats up Bill ???? Long time no talk ! What in God's good name are you doing with a Ford motor ? I'm curious
Paul,
What do you mean by an advantage??????
Generally speaking, the block you have is a perfectly fine block.
The rods you have are Ford's truck rods and they are damn-near identical to the Cobra Jet rods (interchangable).
Judging by the two casting numbers you posted, I'm taking a wild guess this is a factory 460 marine engine.
The head casting number is located on the oustide of the head, along the valve cover and between the 3rd and 4th exhaust ports. Again, based on your other numbers, I bet your head casting is D3VE-A2A. If it is, it also might be better/have an advantage over most of the pass car D3VE's.
LO
Jim
This motor belongs to friend of mine. He says it may have come out of a Mercury battle wagon. He was just wondering if it would handle 400hp. I told him that shouldn't be a problem at all, thats a starting point big blocks. I don't know crap about the 460's so I thought I wouls throw some numbers out. I know there are a lot of 460 posts out there, but I didn't want to hijack someones build up thread. Thanks guys.
And thanks to the piece of shit who gave me the red box with a comment "not paying attention". Read my above post douchebag and you'll know why I made a whole different thread. At least have the balls to ID yourself faggot.
Paul,
What do you mean by an advantage??????
Jim
The D3VE head came onto the scene with the 1973 model year, so most D3VE passenger car heads have smog passages (air pump passages) drilled into them for the Ford Thermactor (A.I.R.).
I have never seen a marine 460 with D3's that are drilled from the factory. My speculation is that this particular machining step was skipped for the marine engines.
My 1974 Merc Wagon 460 had an air pump; my 1973 429 did not. I suspect that perhaps the heads from the 1973 model year cars don't have the passages drilled. This, by the way, is assuming California emissions laws for the 1973 model year...so who knows, 49-state D3's may have been undrilled for subsequesnt years. Trucks may be different, too.
The advantage is only that when it comes to max effort D3's, plugding the air passages on the exhaust side does not need to be done.
LO
Lakes,
My basic starting point was a Harman Marine engine with D3s and the Air ports were drilled in three of four ports.
Jim
This motor belongs to friend of mine. He says it may have come out of a Mercury battle wagon. He was just wondering if it would handle 400hp. Thanks guys.
D6VE rods in a wagon? Anything's possible, I suppose. F250 pickup is more likely, though.
400HP is almost doable with the components listed. The primary limitation is the fulcrum rocker assembly on the D3VE heads, as it limits cam lift. If this is for a street driven car, the additonal exhaust restriction will make the D3VE valve-train mod necessary. If it's for a boat, a simple build that was listed in another thread will almost handle it...with a few adjustments.
390HP 466 w/D3's:
460 short block with stock rods (ARP bolts) and SRP flat-top pisons
Zero-deck the block (.005" deck).
Double-roller timing chain
Comp Cams Kit with XE262H 218/224@.050 .513/.520 110LC. This cam will work with stock D3VE valve train components; snap-on valve stem seals MAY be required for clearance but not likely.
Shave heads about .030" from factory issue...ultimately, we are trying to get a combustion chamber volume of about 90cc's, so measure the combustion chamber volume and take 90cc's over the actual amount of material removed from the mating surface of the cylinder heads. Combustion chamber volume decreases about 3cc's per .010" shaved.
(This will give you about a 10:1 c/r)
2.19" intake valves and 1.76 exhaust valves.
Intake and exhaust bowl blending of D3VE cylinder heads. Also, exhaust port of D3VE cylinder heads must have the valve guide boss ground down flat with the bowl/smog bump mostly removed/exhaust manifold bolt protrusion (bulging from port wall) blended down as much as can be reasonably done so as not to be a flow obstruction.
Edelbrock Performer intake with a Holley 850 #4781 mechanical secondary carburetor.
Aftermarket dizzy or recurved factory Dura Spark electronic distributor.
OT headers.
The above build should put you at around 390HP range after break-in and a tuning day. No heavy substitute pistons!
Important: If you shave heads .030" or more (since factory), be sure to check intake manifold alignment against the cylinder head's intake ports and check intake manifold bolt hole alignment, too. If bolt/port alignment is off, then do not shave the intake manifold; rather, shave the intake side of the cylinder heads .010" at a time (each) until you get a good port match. (.020" on the intake side of the heads should do it.) By doing this to the heads instead of the manifold, you have essentially bastardized only one engine component instead of two. Also, the heads will work with any uncut manifold and the manifold will still work with any heads as well.
If an extra step is taken--specifically the modificaton to the valve train so as to utilize the 7/16" studs as in the earlier heads--then a bigger cam and roller rockers will enable you to surpass 400HP with ease. Swapping out the D3's for early-style heads is another possibility...just use 22cc dish-top pistons to get your 10:1 c/r.
LO
Posting Permissions