Reply With Quotethere is definately another zerk fitting behind the droop snoot that you should grease. It lubricates the rear of the shaft. not sure about the front of the pump though.
I took the boat out yesterday and was getting a squeaking and vibration from the pump shaft. I headed back and got out the grease gun, greased the u-joints but couldn't find the zerk on the pump, but I did notice a whole bunch of grease on the suction piece. I took some pictures and what it looks like to me that I blew out the zerk on the pump? Can anyone confirm this is where the zerk should be on an AT SD 309 pump? I'm also wondering if this is a common problem. i.e. is there a lot of pressure behind that zerk, or did it just loosen up over time due to vibration. Also what are the chances that I damaged anything in the pump, can I just put another zerk in, fill it with grease and be good to go? In looking through the manuals on American Turbine's website I noticed that there is another zerk to lube the bowl that you have to remove the droop to get to. Can anyone confirm this? If so this is a poor design imo. I liked my berkley pump with the external bowl screws to put the oil in.
http://www.***boat.com/forums/attach...tid=6935&stc=1
there is definately another zerk fitting behind the droop snoot that you should grease. It lubricates the rear of the shaft. not sure about the front of the pump though.
If it was making noise I would pull it apart and check the bearing, if the bearing was starting to let go it will pump all the grease out
There is one you have to pull the droop off to get to....Bring it down to Brians speed and marine for some quick repairs......I will give you a call when its finished...
572 Daytona...about that filter in the picture. I use that for my engine and also my headers (2 total). Don't know if that's what you use it for, but if so with to much water psi that clear cap will blow off! :sqeyes: My block psi is now down to 8-12 psi tops. This and a zip tie around the filters work great. Never any sand in the engine and never any clogged header water lines.
I also order the clear lids and change them out every season as they will show stress/heat cracks from the back flow of hot engine water when the engine is turned off.
A wise man once recomended those clear filters to me. Works great on mine also.
Thanks guys, part #34 is showing as a zert fitting in this diagram, I'm thinking that is gone on mine. I just got back from Autozone and they had no clue when I asked for a zert fitting :frown: Is this some special order part from AT or are the threads on the fittings standard, If they are, I can probably borrow one from one of my trailers or u-joints from another boat or something. It sounds like I will need to take the pump apart during the winter, I just didn't know if I could drive it to the boat ramp or do I need to get it towed. JBB, feel free to come up here anytime to fix, the last time I took a recommendation from you and dropped my boat off somewhere I didn't see it again for over a year :devil:
Hammer, the filter is for my self priming bilge pump, my last pump got ruined from sucking up all the crap in the bilge so I use that now. The copper looking thingy to the right of the filter is a water pressure regulator that dumps excess pressure from the pump overboard before it gets to the motor.
http://www.americanturbine.com/image...HP_diagram.gif
http://www.***boat.com/forums/attach...tid=6681&stc=1
Here is the picture of my AT suction from the swap meet thread (pg5), you can see the grease zerk.
Brian
Here is the picture of my AT suction from the swap meet thread (pg5), you can see the grease zerk.
Brian
Thanks Brian, looks like I need to get me one of those (or look around the bottom of the boat and hope it is still there somewhere). Where's that latest Rex Marine catalog
[. JBB, feel free to come up here anytime to fix, the last time I took a recommendation from you and dropped my boat off somewhere I didn't see it again for over a year :devil:
Hey.....whats a year between friends... :boxed:
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