Reply With QuoteWe run water/methonal injection on boosted street/race cars but I have never seen it done on a boat. I wonder why as well? Hell you have the whole lake to use for a water tank!!!
I'm the biggest newbie to the blower scene, but I'm learning as fast as I can. While doing research for the forced induction of my car, I found that water injection is a much better cylinder cooler than adding extra injectors that just dump more fuel to cool, which in turn helps avoid meltdown under big boost. This also takes away from from "fuel mileage".
Since we have the biggest available water souce, why wouldn't water injection systems be more widely used compared to a chiller that cools the charge, but also restricts flow and reduces boost? The water that runs through the chiller is the same temperature of the lake, but takes on heat as it flows through the chiller. With water injection, you would lose the added weight of the chiller, the overall cost and if plumbed through a strainer or filter, would provide cleaner water. The water systems can be programmed to come on at a specified rpm, say 4000 and provide a cooler charge.
Am I way off base here, or is this something that has been tried and failed, or not tried and perfected enough?
We run water/methonal injection on boosted street/race cars but I have never seen it done on a boat. I wonder why as well? Hell you have the whole lake to use for a water tank!!!
I was contemplating useing a methonal/water injectionin my jet boat.My marine engine builder says it would be a great addition to my engine as it would reduce the chance for detonation and let you make more power.For the cost of the system I would rather put the money toward an inter cooler.You are relying on too many variables IMO than running a water to air intercooler.Here is a link to ane of the companies that make these systems.http://www.coolingmist.com/
I would like to get an intercooler for my 502 with a vortech blowthru setup maby next winter.I am spending a small fortune building my new motor.http://www.pwr-performance.com/intercooler.htm These people make some nice intercoolers the one I want is $1500. it would offer a very clean install.
I used to run water injection for years when I ran a sand drag buggy.
http://www.childsdale-ind-prop.com/p.../Dunebuggy.jpg
It worked well with a drawthrough turbo, non intercooled engine.
I would run 50% alcohol in it. I used a windshield washer bottle and had the electric pump turn on at 5 psi and had a .030 orifice on the line. You shoot it in right throught the air filter top so it aims right in the carb venturi.
I think the water inj has some merit still. It certainly will combat detontation better than gas but if you put too much in it will start to reduce hp.
I was considering it for the blown 460 ford motor in my Daytona. I don't want to spend money on an intercooler for it because I don't know if I want a blower on it long term anyways. The water inj would allow me to up the boost with the current setup.
I always have to see how much it will take. :rollside:
Im currently rigging one up on my Daytona. Figure id give it a try. Gonna run a snow performance kit. Im running a small blower and spinning the hell out of it. Figure its alot cheaper to try this out than buying a chiller redoing my hatch cutting more holes in the boat and spending a small fortune on braided lines and fittings. Also would like to get a intake air temp gauge that would tell me exactly how much the methanol inj was cooling the intake charge.
Also would like to get a intake air temp gauge that would tell me exactly how much the methanol inj was cooling the intake charge.
That got me thinking. ???
I'm not sure the water inj is really going to cool the intake charge much.
There's not that much water that's going in.
It seems like I read about no more than 15% water / fuel ratio at WOT.
That's only 15% of the fuel that's in a 12:1 A/F ratio.
I think it's just going to make the mixture less prone to detonation.
Maybe someone else knows the water quantities better that I do.
With someone who runs alcohol at a 6:1 A/F ratio there's a huge volume of fuel going in and that would certainly cool the mixture temp.
Alky runs cooler itself, but if you take water and break it down...H2O. Hydrogen (hydrogen bomb) and Oxygen. Can create more power also, and add alcohol in the injection solution. The cooler restricts the flow of air while trying to cool that charge, also robbing boost pressure.
I have a Chevy Dually 1979, I put a turbo on it in '79 and have put (as a work truck) 498,000 miles on it. 221,000 on the original stock motor, and the rest with a 461 I built. First of all, the timing chain was the reason for the rebuild (it was sawing a hole in the cover) it was so loose. I ran 5lbs and 8lbs on this draw thru set up. I ran regular unleaded fuel all of the time, and injected water between the blower and the intake valves. I tried alcohol with water, but on this mild deal found no difference. Ran a wiper bottle with a 10lbs pump on it. Mounted a changable threaded oraface at the intake manifold after the blower. I tried it before the blower and found it to slow down the 'spool up'. We are talking a 300 E flow Rayjay, drawing thru a 650 Holley spread bore. I ended up with a .015" oraface for the entire motor. Ran 40 degrees spark down to 4 inches of vacuum, then it dropped back to 30 degrees (on boost), 2.5 PV with 62 jets, secondarys were 85's noPV. Ran 14.78 @ 89MPH, and still got 14MPG empty, and 9.6MPG with camper and race boat trailer (18,500 lbs) Turbos work, and last!
i ran a system on my flat that I loved. It was an old recipe some of my dads friends put together in the 70's. I copied them and had great results. No pumps or solenoids. Used a polished summit vacuum resorvoir with some mods for a tank, pressurized via boost from the intake manifold( with a one way check valve) -8 braided line. #4 s.s hardline for a spraybar over the carbs with one .025 hole over each carb, and closed off the other end of the tube. The fuller the tank, the sooner it can pressurize, I did have a relief valve so I could bleed it off after a pass, but if you dont chop the throttle immediately, and roll down easy you don't have to worry about that. This formula worked great on blown bbc's from 427 w/ 750 holleys up to 500ci w/ 850 holleys ikn our own experiences. My dads, friends old boat in which I copied most of this from was a 427 running 25% od on the blower on puymp gas with 32* of timing. My father still has the system on his flat, I'll see if he can post somer pics of it. Steve
Posting Permissions