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Thread: Transom adaptor O-Ring questions

  1. #1
    Kleckner
    I have a 12JB pump that I am installing on a 1970 Sea Ray Pachanga. The pump has been on the same boat before; I bought it as a project, Jet Drive only partially assembled. I have the jet drive manual, but it is not clear enough to help me with the assembly problem that I am having.
    I am having problems seating the bowl-to-transom-adapter O-ring. It slips off teh back of the bowl when the adaptor plate is put on. How the heck are these things supposed to assemble?
    Thanks in advance
    Mark

  2. #2
    77Spectra
    I took mine and threw it away. Silicon was invented after the o-ring.

  3. #3
    Kleckner
    That's what I feared. Originally, the boat had silicone on it. Not my idea of a good seal for something that is below the waterline.
    Looks like $hit IMO, but I guess I'll have to make do.
    Thanks
    Mark

  4. #4
    froggystyle
    It actually works a ton better, if done right. And, it doesn't look half as bad as a boat on the bottom because of a badly seated o-ring!

  5. #5
    77Spectra
    If everything is well painted, use clear. White looks dingy with age, black is hard to get looking right. Took me ten years to yank the pump and realize there was no O-ring.

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    1,863
    Klecknel, take that silicone and dump it. That stuff is only for pumps that are set back, where you cannot use the stock parts or are for guys that are either too lazy to set the pump up right or don't know how to.
    If you do have a set back pump then yes, you have to use the stuff. I always use white and tape off the area to be sealed so you have a nice edge to the silicon rather that just smearing it on with your finger.
    If your pump set up is stock, nothing works better than the rubber O ring. After you put the O ring in the groove, coat it with some white grease and install the transom adapter. Sometimes you have to use a mallet and a piece of wood to get it started over the O ring. Tap it LIGHTLY.
    The same goes for the rubber gasket that goes on the transom adapter. You can glue (silicone)the gasket to the flange of the housing and let it dry. This is only to make it easier to put these parts together and not to seal it. Then use white grease again in-between the seal and the boat hull.
    Been doing it like this for a long time and
    never had a leaker.

  7. #7
    SeaSlut
    I feel your pain!
    I was told to use the silly-cone, but I don't listen well. I insisted on put it together the way Berkeley intended it. IT WAS A BITCH!!!
    I got hold of a bunch of too long 1/4x20 screws, ran them through the transom adapter holes and turned each one a little until it was seated. I was afraid to get the hammer.

  8. #8
    spectras only
    I'm with old rigger on this one. "O" ring and the rubber gasket on mine only.And it's the original vintage 1976 at that! If I have to remove the bowl for some reason, I just remove the adapter plate fasteners,bowl bolts,and pull the bolw/adapter off together.
    [This message has been edited by spectras only (edited August 09, 2001).]

  9. #9
    Kleckner
    Wow, I can't beleive all the replies to such a simple topic. Thanks a lot guys. I'm going to try the O-Ring again with white lithium grease. If that doesn't work, I'll have to go with silicone.

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