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Thread: Question: Banderlog Valve

  1. #1
    Senior Member
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    Feb 2009
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    I am getting ready to install my Banderlog water injection valve and I am wondering where to install it and if it needs to be wired to the ignition or if I can wire it directly to the battery? I am thinking of installing it on the outside of my port stringer under my alternator; however, in the directions it says it should be installed in a dry place. Do you guys think that this will be a dry enough place for the valve? I like this location because I can still get to the metering valve from the back seat. Also, I was going to wire the positive wire to the ignition but I thought I might have some power loss and thought wiring it directly to the battery might be a better suggestion. As always thanks for the help guys.

  2. #2
    Mrs. Psycho Squid
    What's a banderlog?

  3. #3
    Senior Member
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    Feb 2009
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    What's a banderlog?
    I thought it was a chocolate candy when I ordered it. I was wrong .

  4. #4
    Nucking futs
    What's a banderlog?
    Nice

  5. #5
    BLEWBAYOU1
    Squirt(Don) is the new owner of Banderlog. I'll see if I can contact him so he can answer your ?
    Brian

  6. #6
    MidnightMantra
    78Southwind,
    I have a Banderlog valve and I have mine mounted in the same location as you want to put yours. That location also makes it easy to clean out the filter. I suggest that you remove and flush out the filter after every trip to the water you make. As for wiring, I wired mine into the wire distribution block at the back of the motor. Read the instructions because one wire will have to feed off of the Tach wire to engage the solonoid open at 1500 or 2000 rpms. The Banderlog valve as far as I am concerned is the best thing out on the market. Once you set it correctly, you will never have to go back and fool with it again. If you are running a big/large camshaft with overlap, I suggest setting it at 2000rpms with the jumper wire to activate the water release solonoid. If you have anymore questions feel free to ask. I have had mine two years now and am very happy with it.

  7. #7
    Danhercules
    78Southwind,
    I have a Banderlog valve and I have mine mounted in the same location as you want to put yours. That location also makes it easy to clean out the filter. I suggest that you remove and flush out the filter after every trip to the water you make.
    victorfb had problems with filter clogging. Good tip. Every time on the water, clean it. Hell, why you are havin a beer on the water, clean it.

  8. #8
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    1,593
    78Southwind,
    I have a Banderlog valve and I have mine mounted in the same location as you want to put yours. That location also makes it easy to clean out the filter. I suggest that you remove and flush out the filter after every trip to the water you make. As for wiring, I wired mine into the wire distribution block at the back of the motor. Read the instructions because one wire will have to feed off of the Tach wire to engage the solonoid open at 1500 or 2000 rpms. The Banderlog valve as far as I am concerned is the best thing out on the market. Once you set it correctly, you will never have to go back and fool with it again. If you are running a big/large camshaft with overlap, I suggest setting it at 2000rpms with the jumper wire to activate the water release solonoid. If you have anymore questions feel free to ask. I have had mine two years now and am very happy with it.
    For simplicity I would like to wire it to the distribution block too. I just don't know about which power source to use. From the directions it sounds as if you need to wire it to a power source that is active only when the ignition switch is in the on position. Isn't the distribution block always hot? I guess it wouldn't matter if the electronic valve is normally closed (until 1500 RPM) and not pulling any current. I am I on the right track here guys? I don't want to run current when the boat is on the trailer and kill the battery.

  9. #9
    MudPumper
    78, you have to wire it to a switched lead (ignition key activated). There are areas on the distribution block that are always hot but on the ignition lead it is switched by the key. If you were to wire it to an always hot lead, the solonoid would draw current even when the key is off. When juice is sent to the valve it activates and closes and when the juice is shut off, it opens. If that makes any sence. I wired mine from the fuse block and just tapped into the switched ignition power source. If I remember correctly you also run a Pos and Neg wire straight off the battery. Then you need the switched ignition source and the Tach lead also. It works kinda like a car stereo. It always has a hot lead giving it power but you need a switched source to turn it on.

  10. #10
    Senior Member
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    Got it thanks guys.

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