Time for new steering. Help needed inside.

[stashtrey]

I have the morse cable system... not rack/pinion.
My cable goes directly from the box and makes a quick turn left down the port side all the way to the transom where it makes another left turn and hooks around near the starboard exhaust manifold exiting out to the drive.
My question is.... is that the best route to take? The steering is currently very easy to turn but there is a ton of play in it. Unfortunately today I was doing some work replacing the bilge blower and noticed the steering cable had cracked and split open and most of the steel wires had broken. The drive still turns just fine but this can't be good. The thought of losing steering is not a good one.
So... I've noticed a lot of people use rack/pinion. Is it worth it to switch to the rack/pinion or should I just replace the cable?
Also... how difficult is it going to be to replace the cable if I decide to stick with my current system.
Finally.... does anyone know the length I should order for an 18' Spectra with a JE Berk pump?
Is this project over my head?
Thanks in advance for any help I get!!!

[455Rocket]

That is common navigation for a steering cable... I can't believe that the wheel was easy to turn w/ that much damage. Most of the time they get sticky over a few seasons w/o damage. I'm sure you'll see an improvement.
Look at rexmar.com for prices on cables and new assemblies. If what you have now is a rotary system and older, a new one of any type might take some drilling in the dash.
The cable is not difficult to replace, and even if you replace the whole assy., it shouldn't be over your head.

[robk]

My advice: If you can't replace the cable only, make sure you replace the steering unit with what was there originally. I don't know what the heck was originally in the last hull I bought, but I had to fab up this crazy 3-piece adaptor to get a rack and pinion in there securely.
If you search on google you can find a few different methods for how to measure for what length of cable you need. I ordered a little longer than what I measured (and I measured at least 4 or 5 times) and came up with just enough cable to get the job done.
Rob

[Squirtin Thunder]

I have the morse cable system... not rack/pinion.
My cable goes directly from the box and makes a quick turn left down the port side all the way to the transom where it makes another left turn and hooks around near the starboard exhaust manifold exiting out to the drive.
My question is.... is that the best route to take? The steering is currently very easy to turn but there is a ton of play in it. Unfortunately today I was doing some work replacing the bilge blower and noticed the steering cable had cracked and split open and most of the steel wires had broken. The drive still turns just fine but this can't be good. The thought of losing steering is not a good one.
So... I've noticed a lot of people use rack/pinion. Is it worth it to switch to the rack/pinion or should I just replace the cable?
Also... how difficult is it going to be to replace the cable if I decide to stick with my current system.
Finally.... does anyone know the length I should order for an 18' Spectra with a JE Berk pump?
Is this project over my head?
Thanks in advance for any help I get!!!
That is common with the JE pump. If you want to remove 95% of the play switch the diverter controls and steering cable location. Roostwear has done this and it is way better than the standard JE set up. I strongly recomend it especially with the Spectra 18 !!!
Maybe Roostwear will post some pics of his !!!
If not call me, I will help you !!!

[stashtrey]

I have no diverter right now and it's not in the cards until next season. But I can't go any longer w/out replacing the cable. cpperformance has a rack/pinion kit that says it can replace the morse/rotary system without any new drilling/hardware.
Thanks for all the help so far!

[Oldsquirt]

Couple years ago I needed a new cable for the Morse Rotary Command in my 80 Eliminator. I discovered that the cables were no longer being serviced for the early style Morse rotary. I got lucky and found a shop up in your area that still had one in stock and for a very reasonable price. Since your boat is a couple years older than mine you will likely be in the same situation of having to get lucky finding one.
There should be a part number on the cable sheath within a foot or two of the cable end. That will help both with the cable style and the length. If you do find a cable, the difficulty rating of installing the new cable into the helm is about "medium".(this coming from a professional mechanic)
If you cant find a cable and have to replace the whole system, there are a few things to consider. A newer rotary system may well be a near direct bolt on to your dash. It would pay to ask for a mounting template BEFORE ordering.
If you decide to go with a rack & pinion system, make sure you have enough clearance behind your dash. The "rack" requires about 10-12" clearance to both the right and left of steering centerline plus whatever bend radius you need on the left side. Again, ask for a mounting template BEFORE ordering.
If you can't find the length marked on your old cable, remove the old system and measure it before ordering the new system.
Both the rack and rotary systems work fine. "Play" in both systems will be about the same. The rack systems have the advantage of much easier future cable replacement, but as mentioned, require more space behind the dash.

[roostwear]

I've had the old Steermaster Mk v, the Hardin rotary helm, and rack and pinion (in the old Tahiti), and what it has come down to for me was space. I don't have room in the Advantage for a r&p, so I stayed with the rotary. It's a little sloppier than a r&p, but I doubt you'l notice the difference. Price-wise, I found it's cheaper to replace the whole assembly than replace the cable. I posted the pics on the new helm installation some time ago... I'll have to see if they're still around.
If your transom is flat (doesn't have the recess for the pump), converting it over is a breeze, and now is the time to do it. You won't have to screw with leaky bellows and dragging linkage again. You'll need a steering tube, bracket, arm, and cable seal. Drill the hole in the transom for the steering tube and reverse cable, and you're done. You'll be changing the cable routing if you convert, so make sure you measure long enough to make wide bends, and maneuver around mounts, other lines, etc.
Oh, and make sure to fab a plate to cover the old holes, too!

[455Rocket]

My advice: If you can't replace the cable only, make sure you replace the steering unit with what was there originally. I don't know what the heck was originally in the last hull I bought, but I had to fab up this crazy 3-piece adaptor to get a rack and pinion in there securely.
Rob
I can tell you exactly... a hardin rotary from Rex. sorry man.

[robk]

I can tell you exactly... a hardin rotary from Rex. sorry man.
No worries. To be honest, I liked the way the rack and pinion worked a little more anyway. Plus (ask my girlfriend) I'll take any excuse I can get to fabricate something.
Rob

[Rexone]

I can tell you exactly... a hardin rotary from Rex. sorry man.
No longer handle the Hardin stuff (had problems). Fully stocked on Teleflex Rotary or R&P now. (I need to get hardin steering off the website) . :redface:
Also handle Uflex (http://www.uflexusa.com/mech_steer_sys.html) which is a little higher end system IMO.