Reply With QuoteThere was a "how-to install an electric hatch" in last months Hot Boat mag. It looked fairly simple to do. And yes, HB has a magazine...
When I purchased my boat it came with the manual Engine Hatch and Gas Shocks, I was considering upgrading to the Electric Actuator style, my question is are these hard to install? What length would I need for my boat, I see in the Rex Catatlog (on line of course) that they sell a 18" and 24" version. Any help or advice would be very much appreciated...
gjb
There was a "how-to install an electric hatch" in last months Hot Boat mag. It looked fairly simple to do. And yes, HB has a magazine...
it is not too hard. The easiest way to do it is to remove your rear seat, but if not, you can just climb into the engine compartment.
1) Raise your hatch all the way and then hold the big end of the ram to the floor (as close to the motor as possible just behind the motor mounts).
2) Screw the ram bracket to the floor, but make sure that the bracket is connected to wood and you are not going to put a hole in the bottom of the boat.
3) Install the bolt from the ram to the bracket
4) With the ram fully collapsed, close the hatch with you inside of the engine compartment or back seat removed, then tilt it up (with bracket on) to the bottom of the hatch and mark the outside with a sharpie.
5) remove the bracket from the ram and screw it to the hatch. Be careful not to go through the padding and into the upholstry.
6) Install the top of the ram with the pin.
7) Run two wires from the connection point on the ram up to the dash. (usually will have to pull out side panels or use an electrician's fish tape to go from the dash to the back and hook the wires.
8) Drill a 3/8" hole in the dash for a double pole double throw toggle switch (in the location you want the switch) or buy a Dana switch and drill a 1" (?) hole and mount the switch.
9) Install the switch. If you go with a toggle, get a 3/8" treaded switch washer from Dana (or Rex, or Eddie) in your color. Use locktight on it to secure it in place.
10) To wire up the switch look below at the diagram. Go constant hot (on ignition switch) for power and use a gauge ground for the ground. Remember to put an inline fuse between the power wire and the switch. Should take approximately 15-20 amp.
http://www.hotboatpics.com/pics/data/500/1598hatch.bmp
Sounds a lot more difficult than it really is. The hardest part is to run the wires on the boat. You can either take out the interior or fish it from the back to the front. If I recall properly too, you should use the 18" ram on the 202.
Good luck,
Danny
I did that to my old Cole, and it was pretty easy. As far as the length of the one you need, measure your hatch from the highest position you would like it to go, till it closes. Install a switch, & run the wires. Mounting was real easy also.
I love my Dana hatch scissors.......the ram type takes up valuable staorage space in the engine compartment, something to consider.
Them Dana's come in some perdy colors too
it is not too hard. The easiest way to do it is to remove your rear seat, but if not, you can just climb into the engine compartment.
1) Raise your hatch all the way and then hold the big end of the ram to the floor (as close to the motor as possible just behind the motor mounts).
2) Screw the ram bracket to the floor, but make sure that the bracket is connected to wood and you are not going to put a hole in the bottom of the boat.
3) Install the bolt from the ram to the bracket
4) With the ram fully collapsed, close the hatch with you inside of the engine compartment or back seat removed, then tilt it up (with bracket on) to the bottom of the hatch and mark the outside with a sharpie.
5) remove the bracket from the ram and screw it to the hatch. Be careful not to go through the padding and into the upholstry.
6) Install the top of the ram with the pin.
7) Run two wires from the connection point on the ram up to the dash. (usually will have to pull out side panels or use an electrician's fish tape to go from the dash to the back and hook the wires.
8) Drill a 3/8" hole in the dash for a double pole double throw toggle switch (in the location you want the switch) or buy a Dana switch and drill a 1" (?) hole and mount the switch.
9) Install the switch. If you go with a toggle, get a 3/8" treaded switch washer from Dana (or Rex, or Eddie) in your color. Use locktight on it to secure it in place.
10) To wire up the switch look below at the diagram. Go constant hot (on ignition switch) for power and use a gauge ground for the ground. Remember to put an inline fuse between the power wire and the switch. Should take approximately 15-20 amp.
http://www.hotboatpics.com/pics/data/500/1598hatch.bmp
Sounds a lot more difficult than it really is. The hardest part is to run the wires on the boat. You can either take out the interior or fish it from the back to the front. If I recall properly too, you should use the 18" ram on the 202.
Good luck,
Danny
Thanks Danny, doesn't sound too difficult from your description.
I love my Dana hatch scissors.......the ram type takes up valuable staorage space in the engine compartment, something to consider.
Them Dana's come in some perdy colors too
I like those also, there just more than I want to spend to open and close my Engine hatch...
What if your battery goes dead???
I don't want any smart ass answers here either. :devil:
I ask, because i thought of doing this on my boat. :idea:
What if your battery goes dead???
I don't want any smart ass answers here either. :devil:
I ask, because i thought of doing this on my boat. :idea:
My Perko switch was under my rear seat. Worst case, unscrew it, & hook the charger up to those terminals.
We also have electric rams. When you wire it, have a second set of wire leads that go under your seat so you can jump it open. Some manufacturers actually install a 12 volt power outlet in their seat base and connect the second set of wires to that.
Chase, I just did one on my 580I, and I had the same concern...everyone says to create a way to "Jump" it but what if it's not the battery, but the motor burns up...I am putting an 8" access port in the wall between the bench seat storage and the engine compartment. That way if it ever gets stuck closed, I can reach through the port access to unbolot the lower mount. I bought an access portal for $8 and it's water tight so I don't have to worry about fumes etc.
Posting Permissions