Power Wire question

[mickeyfinn]

Yes and no... The object is to move air over the amp's to help dissipate the heat off the amps heatsinks. Even if the air is hot, as long as it's movice the air off the heatsinks, the job is being done...
The problem with the blowers is they can be somewhat noisey.. It would work very well, though!
Not true!!!! You must have an intake and exhaust. The only reason for this not to be true is if you are never going to run the system long enough to heat up the cubic area the amps are mounted in. When the air moves over the fins it is transferring heat from the amp to the ambient air. Once this air is above the recommended temp for the amps you have problems.

[Force26]

I'm running 4 interstate marine batteries, hopefully will be enough.
Should the amps be mounted like: 300/4 300/4
1000/1
Fan Fan
Blowing upward
Or LIke this: 300/4 1000/1 300/4
Fan Fan
Blowing upward
And If I run one 0 gauge cable from the battery to a fused distribution block, what size circut breaker would I want 18 inches from the battery? The amps fuses are 40amp for each of the 300/4 and 100amp for the 1000/1. Or would it be better to and another Perfko switch and come off of the switch with 0 gauge cable to a distribution block? Anyone know of where I may be able to find a wiring diagram showing something like this?
Thanks :rollside:

[ROZ]

Not true!!!! You must have an intake and exhaust. The only reason for this not to be true is if you are never going to run the system long enough to heat up the cubic area the amps are mounted in. When the air moves over the fins it is transferring heat from the amp to the ambient air. Once this air is above the recommended temp for the amps you have problems.
If you read a couple posts up I posted this:
"From bottom to top or from side to side will both work well... You can even put 2 fans on one side and have just exhaust vents on the other... "
Intake from the ventillated engine compartment or side panels and exhausting will be enough. The air would not be recirculated. My point was that air vent from the outside of the boat isn't necessary.... Besides, it would have to be REALLY hot form ambient moving air temps to equal the clipping temps of the amp.... If that was the case, he could bake tater tots in his amp rack while sitting in the channel

[mickeyfinn]

Sorry.....Didnt see that. The way I was reading it, he was installing amps in a separate area behind the seats (Not part of the engine area). As far as the tater tots go maybe a built in oven is an option no one has thought of.

[Force26]

The amps are in a seperate compartment ((not the engine compartment))

[Havasu Hangin']

And If I run one 0 gauge cable from the battery to a fused distribution block, what size circut breaker would I want 18 inches from the battery? The amps fuses are 40amp for each of the 300/4 and 100amp for the 1000/1. Or would it be better to and another Perfko switch and come off of the switch with 0 gauge cable to a distribution block? Anyone know of where I may be able to find a wiring diagram showing something like this?
Thanks :rollside:
I'd run a second Perko so you can turn the amp's power supply off when the boat is stored. Otherwise, you're going to have to trip the circuit breaker, pull the fuse, etc.
The size wire and fuse requirements are all determined by the max current draw and length. The 0 guage will work fine, but put the circuit breaker as close to the Perko as possible.

[Force26]

I'd run a second Perko so you can turn the amp's power supply off when the boat is stored. Otherwise, you're going to have to trip the circuit breaker, pull the fuse, etc.
The size wire and fuse requirements are all determined by the max current draw and length. The 0 guage will work fine, but put the circuit breaker as close to the Perko as possible.
Do I just add up all the amperage of all three amps? ((100amp + 40amp+ 40 amp = 180amp circut breaker?)) and is it poss. to run a 0 gauge cable off the perko switch? Why wouldn't I run the 0 gauge cable off the original perko switch common instead of adding an additional perko switch? And finally if I have to add the additional perko switch, do I link the battery two terminal to the 2nd perko switch common? Sorry for all the questions, just want it right
thank you

[Havasu Hangin']

Do I just add up all the amperage of all three amps? ((100amp + 40amp+ 40 amp = 180amp circut breaker?)) and is it poss. to run a 0 gauge cable off the perko switch? Why wouldn't I run the 0 gauge cable off the original perko switch common instead of adding an additional perko switch? And finally if I have to add the additional perko switch, do I link the battery two terminal to the 2nd perko switch common? Sorry for all the questions, just want it right
thank you
Yes, you can add up the amp draw needs of each amp and buy your wire accordingly (think of the wire as a pipeline- you don't want too small of pipes).
Your wire requirements should be based on the max the amps will draw (bigger is always better), but the circuit breaker is a saftey net in case of a failure (meltdown, grounding, etc.). I always choose a safe circuit breaker, that will trip before the 0 gauge melts. Also, it doesn't necessarily have to be the cummulitive draw of the amps at failure- just enough to keep it from tripping under full load.
The same holds true for the distribution block fuses- make sure they burn before the wire would heat up.
As for the Perko, there are several ways depending on what you are after. 0 gauge can be hooked to the Perko (it's not easy if you need tight bends, but it can be done).
You can run your 0 gauge off your original Perko. However, if you do that, keep in mind that the same battery(s) that are driving the stereo are also being charged by the alternator, driving the accessories, etc.