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Thread: fuel tank switching

  1. #1
    What is the simpliest method of switching between 2 fuel tanks? Other than a manual valve or an expensive fuel switching hub. I've been considering some type of fuel safe electric solenoid, but I wouldn't know how to find the right one. A normally open or closed solenoid plumbed in the line from either tank would have to be powered when you wish to draw fuel from that tank. I'm not sure if the solenoid would survive or how to find one that would handle that type of duty cycle.
    Anybody try this before. I hate the idea of climbing over the rear seat and trying close a manual valve.
    What about the fuel level guage? I've got senders in both tanks, but I don't know how to wire them up so they indicate the level of the fuel tank I am using.

  2. #2
    For that fuel gauge issue...
    I don't think you can splice the inputs together, it might make the gauge signal read at 1/2 scale.
    You could add a balance tube and then use 1 gauge? Does your tank2 have the spare outlets?
    Or add a second gauge and have 2.
    Oh yeah, check out ( for a manual valve and they might even have an solenoid actuated one too.
    [This message has been edited by MoJetBoPar (edited March 15, 2002).]

  3. #3
    I have the same problem two tanks and no guage. As far as the valve thing Im going to the junk yard and get a set-up from a 86-87 Chevy pick-up with duall tanks. I have thought for a long time it should work perfect. Maybe Im nuts but I think it should be perfect. Im figuring that if I run out on one I still have a full one left. The wiring may be a little tricky....

  4. #4
    For the fuel gauge, just use a double pole, double throw switch for your two wires into one. Switch it to the tank you wish to read.
    As far as a fuel switch, I am running an IMCO Superflow valve, but they are pretty spendy. In my last boat I ran a Brass Ballcock (Don't get all excited Riverdave!) valve that was rated for fuel, and plumbed it under my back seat, so you just had to remove the cushion and the line was right there. From there it went into the electric pump.
    Squirts up!

  5. #5
    Havasu Hangin'
    I made the switch (pardon the expression) a couple years ago from a manual to a solenoid valve.
    To use one gauge, you use a douple pole switch. A douple pole switch has 2 cicuits- one is used for the sending units, and one is used for the solenoid wire. Each sending unit wire goes to the switch, with a single wire going from the switch to the gauge.
    Now, when I switch to a tank, that tank's sending unit sends the signal to the gauge.

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    HH, What valve assembly are you using. I'm in need of one also.

  7. #7
    Havasu Hangin'
    Originally posted by OLDSQUIRT:
    HH, What valve assembly are you using. I'm in need of one also.
    It was a couple years ago, but I think I got it at a small marine store. I'm not sure of the make or model, as the HH Tugboat is still in storage.
    Come to think of it, I'm not even sure it's rated for fuel. I saw one on my buddy's Omega, and bought one like it. Hasn't blown up yet...

  8. #8
    Last year my tank switch went bad and I have an Idea .. I am going to run a line from the left tank to the right tank with an electric fuel pump inline .....flip of the switch fills the right side from the left AND balances the boat.

  9. #9
    You can get a universal one wire tank switch from any Carquest or Napa parts store. Two lines in and one to the pump. I will get the part # at work tomorrow for you guys. I personally T both tanks together so it draws off both at the same time and that way you just need one sending unit. I have a 18.5 foot boat and its nice to keep it balanced that way but in a bigger boat I would go with a switching valve. Hope that helps.

  10. #10
    And I thought all new boats came with dual gadges...

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