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Thread: thrust bearing replacement

  1. #21
    Mighty Thor
    Look at these two pump diagrams. Blow them up and you will see the slinger ring. On the JF pump, it is part # 60. On the JG Diagram, it is part # 12.
    http://www.hi-techperformance.com/images/12-JF.gif
    http://www.hi-techperformance.com/images/12-JC.GIF
    All Berkeley's have this part. It is what the suctiuon housing seal runs on. It is a pressed on part.
    Jeeze, you scared me there for a second, That thing You called a Slinger I was calling a seal sleeve cause I didn't know what else to call it. That part I got. Whew. I was thingking slinger like on my axels that keeps the gunk away from the front axel shafts.

  2. #22
    SmokinLowriderSS
    I'd liike to see a pic or 2 of Cave's transom myself. His description has me THOROUGHLY confused. :messedup:

  3. #23
    HoffmanEagleMarine
    change that bearing.
    I forget what the F pump is, i think its like the e pump (insert pump) , youll have to pull the motor to get to the bearing if thats the case. I would get that bearing changed out, you mentioned the shaft has an inch of play... that doesnt sound healthy to me.
    Like Chris said, the $60-$80 thrust bearing could be a wise investment...

  4. #24
    cave
    Here it is. My pump doesn't go strait in. Its at a slight angle. I tried to pull it out the front whole. No go. So I tried through the rear. Still no go. So I separated the pump.
    http://www2.***boat.com/image_center...00/841RBA1.jpg
    Cant see the angle on this pic.You can just barley see the O-ring gasket on the top where the bowl goes inside my transom adapter. Its not hard to remove once the bowl is separated from the pump housing. I myself don't understand why or how anything would break if I removed the shaft from the front to the rear. There was more than enough room for the shaft sleeve to pass through the hole without the packing.
    Here is another,
    http://www2.***boat.com/image_center...20/841RBA2.jpg

  5. #25
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    2,626
    Cave, that is a standard setup. you just remove the cast aluminum transom
    adapter and the pump comes right out the back. I will agree that getting the transom adapter to pass over the bowl o-ring can be a bitch.
    All the pumps are at a slight downward angle relative to the keel. The angle relative to the transom varies widely as transom angles themselves vary widely.

  6. #26
    Duane HTP
    Cave, You are going about it the long hard way. Just put a couple of widths of duct tape on the back of the transom around the transom housing. (This keeps you from scratching up the back of the boat). Take out the six bolts holding it on. Start a couple of putty knives in between the transom and hull and pry a little until you can get some screw drivers in there and it will come right off. Then you can get to all of the bowl and suction bolts with ease and the pump will just slide out the back. Much, much easier to do the job that way. The other important thing involved here, is that you can not index the front bearing properly when re-assembling your pump when you have taken the shaft out from the back.

  7. #27
    HammerDown
    ... and the pump will just slide out the back. Much, much easier to do the job that way.
    Someone else mentioned this in post #2

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