Anyone used one of these? It has two terminals. One for the battery and one for the ignition. I should have checked it before I installed it. I am pretty sure that it is bad. The ignition terminal is shorted to the case. The Summit part number is SUM-820323P.
The large terminal is for battery cable and the small is for the crank signal from the "S" terminal of your ignition switch. Internally that "S" terminal goes through a wound coil and then to ground on the case. If you checked "continuity" it should show that it goes to ground. That would be normal. If you measured the resistance between that terminal and ground and got "zero", that would be bad.
Does the starter not function?
I think that's the same one I have. I love it....Works great. I took a Wire crimp and it slides right on the ing. term. So far now problems what so ever and it sounds like a BMW when it turns over.
Yeah, it is blowing fuses. It doesn't even try to kick the gear out. No sound at all. I had a 15amp fuse in it and then a 20amp. Both blew pretty quick. I am going through the ignition push/pull switch and then to a push button start switch back to the small terminal on the starter. The Summit tech guy I just talked to said that it shouldn' be shorted to the case. Any ideas?
Yep, definitely sounds like a short. Had a friends Chevy starter do the same thing on New Years at CFW.
Just to verify, however you should disconnect that wire and see if you still blow the fuse. If it does, problem is elsewhere in the wiring.
Don't know if the base starter is Hitachi or Nippondenso, but solenoid repair kits may be available. In any case it's worth a look inside the solenoid. You just might see a repairable problem.
I removed the one wire and checked it out. Holds the 12v and no fuse blows. It is brand new, never even been tried. I just ordered a new one and I will return this one in the box. Just wanted to verify I wasn't overlooking something. Thanks
Ok, I give up. The second one came in and it is the same thing. I called Summit. The tech guy said he doesn't know too much about them, he "usually just gets installation problems". I took the new one apart and it looks like the solenoid wire is touching the case way back inside. I can't get to the wire without de-soldering the connection. I don't want to get into all that. I didn't pay $230 so I could work on it. Now I have to return both of them. I am not crazy right? This thing only has two terminals. One large one for the battery and one that is gounded to the case and is supposed to be the wire for the solenoid 12V wire. Here is the picture of the starter in question.
http://www2.***boat.com/image_center...um-820323p.jpg
I'm not sure of your situation here but I just installed the same starter with no problems. 2 terminals. One large which goes to battery positive. 1 small terminal which goes to starter button. Not sure what you are talking about "grounded to the case". If that starter solonoid wire is touching the inside of the case..then that is wrong for sure.
If your tired of "Dummit and their fabulous techs", call Jim Mayer and order an IMI. Good starter for less money. http://www.goodvibesracing.com/IMI%2...20Products.htm
When I say grounded to the case, I mean I took the starter off the engine and put it on my wood work bench and found that the solenoid wire connection is shorted to the case. When I took the solenoid case apart, I can see down inside that one of the small soldered wires is touching the case. I can't really get to it, and can barely see it. Pretty tight in there. It's got to be the problem. I don't know about the other starter. Could be the same thing. I would like to stay with the same one, but I don't want to wait again and get a third bad one. I like the two wire deal. If I run a regular three wire one, do I have to use the third post? I only ran the battery cable and the solenoid wire when I ran the wires. Not too big of a deal, just more hassle.
Looks like a standard Nippondenso or Hitachi unit that has been chromed or polished. I wonder if something was done wrong during reassembly?
Have you bench tested the starter? Just connect jumper cables to the case and the big B+ terminal. Then use a short jumper wire to go from the B+ to the small trigger terminal. This eliminates any possible wiring faults in the boat.
For my own curiousity, could you measure the resistance between the trigger terminal and the case?
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