Reply With QuoteI've made some parts from plate alluminun and it still took all day to polish. As I tell people looking at my boat "all that gliders is not chrome".
Hey you guys are right on the money about the amount of time and effort it takes to polish allm. Believe me I know, you see I happen to be the owner operator of a big shiney red w-900 ext hood kenworth (thats a large-car for all you la-mans). Trust me their is plenty to polish on this rig. One thing for sure thoughe, the rewards are definatly worth the effort. Keep the shiney side up boys!
I've made some parts from plate alluminun and it still took all day to polish. As I tell people looking at my boat "all that gliders is not chrome".
California Polishing is located in Huntington Beach CA. they always did great work for me and were always a little cheaper than everybody else. I dont have a # but there in the book. Cross streets are Grahm and mcfadden.
theres a place i go to called CTI abrasives its in santa ana CA they can sell you anything for polishing its 2650 soulth grand 714-662-0909 or www.carbtools.com---nasty (http://www.carbtools.com---nasty) P.S. watch what you use to clean your alum i sprayed this degreaser on nasty AND IT TURNED ALL THE ALUM TO A DULL GRAY the only thing that isnt alum is the block and pipes i spent ALL DAY POLISHING SAT BURNT UP HALF A BLOCK OF GREEN (polish compound)if youve never used a product before try it on something else first---nasty
Any degreaser that has an acid base can etch the aluminum. Leave it on too long and it will turn it black. For really cleaning a cast finish intake to look like new I use Mag wheel cleaner just don't let it sit too long or it will etch it. Polishing has to be done in steps best if possiable to cross each sucessive grain.
On cast aluminum start out with some 120 grit flapper wheels using light pressure. In the tight spots use 120 grit cartridge rolls ( I usually cover them with black rouge to make them just a bit smoother) Next is to use a Sisal wheel with a 220 grit black rouge. Leave it here for that "Satin Finish". A tight sewn buff wheel with black rouge will follow and then you add " color" with a green rouge and a loose sewn buff. The biggest mistake made in polishing is trying to skip to big a step in grit. It can be done but to take the deeper scratches requires 10 times the work.
Anyone know much about "Wenol" metal polish?
I saw a guy on TV demonstrate it on some pretty poor looking non-polished aluminum. The guy put a tiny dab on a rag and make that metal look like it had been on a polishing wheel. I was just wondering if anyone had any first hand experience?
Brian
Wenol is great stuff!!! On a smooth aluminum surface or something that was polished and has since dulled it will bring back the color or mirror look. I always carry it in the race trailer for keeping the wheels and tin work looking shiney. However it will not remove any scratches it will make them shine.
ALL I CAN SAY IS USE MOTHERS ALUMINUM POLISH!
THERES NO SHINE LIKE MOTHERS!!!!
^^^^^^^^WRONG!!!!! Wenoll works WAY better. Shines and cleans easier. SEE
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