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Thread: Blowing Hoses Like ~cRaZy~ Need Help!

  1. #1
    caswensk
    Okay, I will try to explain this clearly, and will add pics to illustrate. Any help is appreciated. I'm pulling my hair out, and wasting what little summer we get in Michigan! Please help...
    The problem. Had a turn-key boat. Running waterlogs and a stock 12Jc pump on a 1976 455olds. No problems, but I wanted more. Added Basset headers and replaced the tired old berkeley with a new dominator pump with droop and divertor.
    Soon after, I began blowing the recirculating hose from the top of the water pump to the bottom. Not sure what this does now, but once upon a time, this is the large hose that runs from the thermostat housing to the top of the radiator, than from the radiator back to the engine. The water pump is still installed but obviously no radiator, so it just loops from the top to the bottom. (Large hose about 1-1/2" or 2" diameter) This hose blew everytime I'd get on the throttle with the new pump/header set-up. Bent up a piece of aluminized exhaust pipe and presto, no more blowing that hose.
    Then, I guess the water sought out the next weakest link. A 1/2" outlet from the water pump housing that's now capped with a rubber cap and hose clamp. This is now my weak point that blows anytime I jump on the throttle.
    I have since added a 1/2" pressure regulator to the inlet hose between the pump and the engine. I set the valve to trip at garden hose pressure. (I have a well not city water... pretty poor pressure). If the valve trips, diverted water is directed overboard. In my head, this reduces the water ingoing to the engine, and would hopefully minimize the hose issues. Whether it helped or not... who knows, but it did not cure the problem. The same plug continues to blow.
    I have picture that I marked-up showing the routing of my plumbing and my trouble areas. I will try to attach these. This is driving me nuts. And I'm out of ideas.
    http://images.snapfish.com/34399%3A2...8%3C6%3E232%3E WSNRCG%3D3232955373%3B45nu0mrj
    http://images.snapfish.com/34399%3A2...D9%3B7%3D323%3 DXROQDF%3E2323864464%3A55ot1lsi

  2. #2
    Jrocket
    Put this up in the Jets section,you'll have better luck getting answers there.

  3. #3
    blown428fe
    Looks all wrong to me, shoundnt be a water pump there. Do a pluming search in the jet boat section.

  4. #4
    396_WAYS_TO_SPIT
    Looks all wrong to me, shoundnt be a water pump there. Do a pluming search in the jet boat section.
    Yup, remove the water pump. Your jet is your water pump.
    396

  5. #5
    Taylorman
    Dude, no offense but you plumbing is all wrong.
    1. Remove the water pump and install a water inlet plate made for a jet boat in place of the water pump.
    2.Run your inlet water into the two holes that the water pump pumps water into.
    3. Get a thermostat housing with two 3/8 npt outlet holes. Ones goes to your t valve that you have now, one goes overboard.
    Problem fixed.
    Kevin

  6. #6
    riverbound
    I agree with everyone else. ditch the water pump. Jets do not need them.

  7. #7
    Foggerjet
    Now, there's something you don't see everyday. Definately remove that water pump!! You've got all the water pump you need poking out the back of your boat. Unless you have some sort of closed cooling, Heat exchanger deal (which you don't). Check eBay, there is almost always Olds stuff that folks have removed. Find a water pump block off/inlet plate. You can also find them new from places like rex.
    http://www.rexmar.com/page167.html
    fog

  8. #8
    Dave C
    The stock water pump you have there is a "re-circulating pump" used mostly for closed cooling systems or open cooling systems that run a sea water pump.
    With the jet having more water pressure than you need, you don't need a re-circulating pump. So get rid of it.
    Also I ran the same pressure valve you have but it had its own outlet and it didn't share it with the motor. So get rid of the tee and put in another outlet.
    On the motor-water outlet, which was by itself, I ran an adjustable valve instead of a thermosat. Have some adjustable backpressure on the motor water outlet I was able to compensate to get more or less the correct heat.
    A thermostat would work better but you have to make sure the pressure is set correctly first.

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