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Thread: Don't do this to your jet!

  1. #41
    1978 Rogers
    This is similar problem I've encountered. Launching the boat on a steap ramp. I didn't have it backed in far enough. When I pulled the pin and slid it off, WHAM. The bow dropped down to where the bar attaches to the trailer and slide down the bracket. I have two nice scratches/gouges a foot long from the bow sliding down. :2purples: This happend the second season I owned it. I always float it off & on the trailer. I will never run it up the trailer or back it off under power.

  2. #42
    Sleek-Jet
    Man, have you hit a pet peeve of mine!!! I hate trailering my boat, just thinking of the beating it's taking back there. I've tried several times to come up with a shock mount for mine, and I'm not done yet.
    I've got an old Road Runner trailer that someone at some point put shocks on. I can't really tell that it helps much, as the trailer seems to bounce the boat around as much as one without shocks.

  3. #43
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    303
    I hate those kind of bow eye steel straps. especially when you are trying to line up the holes to put the pin thru and there's waves and wakes moving the boat around. thats why I always build a support with a rubber pad and use a winch with a nylon strap and run the strap under the support so it pulls the boat up onto the trailer and when its tight, it holds the nose of the boat down against the rubber pad. hook it up and turn the crank and reel her in. drive out of the water.

  4. #44
    Squirtin Thunder
    Believe it or not you should always unhook the bow eye when storing. You ask why, well the boat wants to move on the trailer as it dries. Fiberglass has a tendency to grow and shrink with temperature. You should always allow your boat when stored to move freely. If you don't it can cause stress cracks and hook. I have had a Sanger O/B that moved about 12" on the trailer over the off season. Also when stored the bow should be at least 6" above the transom. This will allow proper water drainage and will support the bow more on the trailer. Less chance of creating a hook.
    Just some thoughts
    Jim

  5. #45
    cave
    I had my flat bar stand straight up when I was trying to hurry up and load my boat. Everyone in lines was bitching about waiting.
    Now I take my time. They can F ckin wait. When they start whining I find a lower gear :yuk:
    Up to that day I was pretty cool about loading & unloading. Sorrr bout this LV. I do feel better now

  6. #46
    Heatseeker
    While we're bitchin about lousy trailer design, can someone tell me why on some trailers, there are only two attachment points on the bunks? My Giroux has two 12 foot bunks, with attachment brackets at front and back only. The same thing on the outer 8 foot bunks. The damn things don't even contact the boat except for at the ends! What's that about ? There are two crossmembers between, where the trailer manufacture could've easily added some more supports. I keep saying I'm going to add some brackets myself...tomorrow... .

  7. #47
    steelcomp
    Sounds like you covered it on your own, but why need to do all that? I think we consumers should demand more from trailer mfgs. Either that or just accept the fate of needing to do what you did.
    We can demand untill we're blue in the face, but I doubt we'll get anywhere. I wanted to get mine done....it was really worn out, so I accepted my fate.
    Besides, no matter how good the trailer, I'd probably do my own wiring, check axles, etc., anyway. Just the way I am, I guess.
    The nicest trailers I have ever seen were made for Jim Miller by a guy named Danny Rich. Each custom fit to the boat. He used rect. tubing instead of channel, didn't have to grind his welds...they were artwork, etc. No mass production...each a custom. :coffeycup

  8. #48
    LVjetboy
    I agree heatseaker. And why not bunkers that don't warp? Like some sort of recycled plastic dealy they make those bus stop benches out of.
    Steel, short term I think you're right. But long-term? Eventually, if enough of us consumers demand better trailer quality...who knows?
    jer

  9. #49
    Big Boys Toy PE857
    To remove you might try an air ratchet on a rod with the trigger taped to the on position and then regulate the air from your compressor outside of the hull. I have done similar repairs in that fashion. Might take 2 people. Good luck! You can attatch the air ratchet with a couple of radiator hose style clamps.

  10. #50
    Heatseeker
    I agree heatseaker. And why not bunkers that don't warp? Like some sort of recycled plastic dealy they make those bus stop benches out of....
    jer
    Good idea Jer. That would solve the lags pulling out and the rotting problems also. You can buy that stuff in planks for decks and such. That may be worth looking in to...

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