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Thread: The Tested Answer To The Droop or Snoot a Big Boat

  1. #1
    PLACECRAFT20
    Here is the original thread for review To droop or snoot a big boat (http://www2.***boat.com/forums/showt...ht=droop+snoot) . I had Duane at Hi-tech performance send me a droop snoot, a short snoot and a long snoot for comparison on a 20' Placecraft daycruiser. The fastest my boat had ever been on the motor was 68.6 with a light load of fuel and just me the driver.
    Here are some pics of my original setup
    http://www2.***boat.com/image_center...1/252JB053.JPG
    http://www2.***boat.com/image_center...1/252jb054.JPG
    http://www2.***boat.com/image_center...1/252JB055.JPG
    http://www2.***boat.com/image_center...52BEGINING.JPG
    The first thing I did per Duanes instructions was to install the droop snoot. I used a 2 degree plastic wedge as a gasket for the installation. This required a stud kit for the pump and having new braided diverter lines made. I also used a steering swivel to make it turn easy.
    http://www2.***boat.com/image_center...52TEARDOWN.JPG
    http://www2.***boat.com/image_center.../252DROOP1.JPG
    http://www2.***boat.com/image_center.../252DROOP2.JPG
    With this setup the boat ran 66.8 mph with two people, a few beers and a full load of fuel. The boat felt nice and loose in the water compared to what it was before.
    The next install was the short snoot with about 7 degrees of wedge to match the wedge of the droop. The boat ran 66.8 mph with two people a few beers and a full load of fuel. The boat was not near as loose but it was just as fast. I performed the short snoot install at the lake and did not take pictures.
    The last step was to install the long snoot with 4 degrees of wedge. Duane said that this seemed to be the best setup for larger boats. The boat ran 68.9 with 2 people a few beers and a full load of fuel. The handling was excellent. The steering required an adapter and steers a little heavy but I just need to work on that a little bit.
    Finally after riding around to lighten the fuel and beer load I made the last pass alone. The boat ran 70.4 mph.
    For my boat the long snoot picked up 2 mph pretty easy on my boat and with some tweeking on my trim tabs and new carb maybe even more.
    http://www2.***boat.com/image_center...LONGSNOOT1.JPG
    http://www2.***boat.com/image_center...LONGSNOOT2.JPG
    Thats my unsolicited 2 cents worth: PLACECRAFT20

  2. #2
    HammerDown
    My opinion on the whole thing...
    Heck thats a nice shop!
    Very clean boat!
    And ya better start polishing on that long snoot... :wink:

  3. #3
    DeputyDawg
    Good deal man! I always love it when I find more speed with set up alone, it makes me smile !
    Now you just need to get the snoot chromed to match the rest of your pump. Nice looking rig by the way!

  4. #4
    Second "PLACE"
    Nice set up, and BEAUTIFUL boat. Love them PLACEcrafts !

  5. #5
    Nucking futs
    I run the place droop and have 425 hp and my boat runs 72 mph with light fuel load.By the way the placecraft has the same bottom as the southwind 20.I also have bennet hyd. trim tabs to ajust on the fly.My ride plate is set at 2.5 degrees up and i have a 3* wedges. I have a 2* back cut shoe that is just about 1/16th below the keel line and it turns on a dime.
    Sounds like with some hardware set up you can get in the lower 70's no prob. Good luck
    Tim

  6. #6
    Taylorman
    You said it steers heavy with the long snoot. What do you mean? Is it harder to turn left than right or vis versa?

  7. #7
    Danhercules
    I run the place droop and have 425 hp and my boat runs 72 mph with light fuel load.By the way the placecraft has the same bottom as the southwind 20.I also have bennet hyd. trim tabs to ajust on the fly.My ride plate is set at 2.5 degrees up and i have a 3* wedges. I have a 2* back cut shoe that is just about 1/16th below the keel line and it turns on a dime.
    Sounds like with some hardware set up you can get in the lower 70's no prob. Good luck
    Tim
    Looks like you should get a long snoot for another 2 MPH.

  8. #8
    PLACECRAFT20
    Thanks for all the complements.
    Yea the steering is harder to turn but, to test all of the products at once I had to come up with a generic setup. I spent nearly two days on and off getting everything ready. I had the hydraulic lines made long and was going to cut them if I ended up with one of the shorter snoots. I had to fit each snoot and work the steering out in the shop so I could take all of them and the tools to the lake at once. What I ended up with is some of the snoots worked with no steering extensions but they would be at one end of the steering cable or the other and not centered. (If that makes since). The long droop needed an extension but the extension needs to be drilled to end up in the center of the steering cable. I did not want to drill any of these parts untill I had desided on the best one for my boat. Now that I know, I will set the steering correctly and it should be fine. The steering cables tend to bind when they are fully extended in or out. They work the best in the middle. I guess thats the sweed spot. By the way my boat has rack and pinion steering.
    Oh yea, I think it will be polished this summer and chromed in the winter.
    Thanks again Placecraft20
    P.S. I noticed no difference in slow steering without the big rudder. I had always wanted to try it without it.

  9. #9
    Taylorman
    I have a huge favor. Can you put a straight edge across your ride plate and see how much clearence you have between the straight edge and the lowest part of your diverter with the diverter all the way down.
    Im curious cause im having a problem with my steering also. Its harder to turn to the left and tends to pull a little to the right. I have a gut feeling its the water coming off the ride plate and hitting the diverter causing this. I have lowered my ride plate some and put a wedge in to raise the nozzle up some.
    Kevin

  10. #10
    NELSON#109
    Placecraft 20, Your Steering Bind Can Be Completely Eliminated If You Use A Ball & Socket Type Steering Tube. Ive Used And Seen Them Used On All Sorts Of Crazy Set Ups. I Had The Same Problem On A Boat After A Setback And A Droop. The Ball Eliminates The Bind By Swiviling And Always Pointing The Steering Arm Straight. I See You Have Ur Steering Arm Running Through The Trans. Adapt. Which Would Make The Install A Bit Imposible For Most. The Cure For This Is To Make A Small Plate, 1/4" Alum, That Bolts Off The Top Left Side Of The Bowl, Between The Bowl And The Snoot. This Also Brings The Cable Closer To The Steering Arm, And Eliminates The Need For The Steering Extention ( Which Often Causes Extra Steering Play)... I Dont Have Any Photos For You, But If You Have Some Basic Fab Skills, This Is An Easy Job. It Looks Clean, And Works Excellent. Most People Dont Like The Extra Work To Do It, And Just Use A New Rubber In The Tube, Or Deal With The Bind, But You Have A Nice Boat, And If You Didnt Pay Attention To Detail It Wouldnt Look Like That..... P.s. There Are At Least Two Different Types Of Ball / Socket Tubes Being Made. One Is Better Looking Than The Other, So Dont Be Scared If You Find The Ugly One First. Nelson #109

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