Reply With Quoteshhhhhh............don't tell summit.
Summit hell, what about Cole Sanger?
I think your problem was the paint.
shhhhhh............don't tell summit.
shhhhhh............don't tell summit.
Summit hell, what about Cole Sanger?
Guys, have you forgotten about Ohm's Law? While I certainly can see the paint on the block interfering with proper starter operation, it should not have caused the fuse to blow.
Current = Voltage divided by Resistance. (I=V/R)
The paint on the block would have increased the resistance in the pull-in circuit of the magnetic switch(correct term for the generically, and incorrectly, applied "solenoid" term regarding this type of starter
I checked one of our new starters and it 0.3 ohms resistance between the "S" terminal and the case.
I do know about Murphy's law and I think so does Cole Sanger.
I've never fused the wire from the ignition to the starter. run min 10 ga wire and hit it.
Everyone is right. The paint was probably what was killing the fuse. I only went up to a 20amp fuse on that circuit. Putting in the 30amp fuse and having the case grounded to the rail is what made it work. I haven't tried it, but I would like to see what the block read when the starter solenoid was engaged. I am going to quit asking myself why this works and just get the thing in the water. I got the last fuel line on last night, so it should be just about good to go. Now if I could just get the fricking spark plug wires together. They are kicking my butt. Anyone have a secret to those? I have a pretty good crimper, but can't seem to get the crimped connector into the boot all the way. They are Taylor wires. Anyway, thanks for all of the info on the starter.
The paint was probably what was killing the fuse. I only went up to a 20amp fuse on that circuit. Putting in the 30amp fuse and having the case grounded to the rail is what made it work..
Crap! Should have asked what size fuse you were blowing. The magnetic switch(aka solenoid) portion of those starters typically draws between 30 and 35 amps. Every vehicle I looked up has at least a 40 amp fuse protecting that circuit. Your 20 amp fuse never had a chance, paint or no paint. If you blewthe fuse, the starter had a ggod enough ground for at least that circuit.
Now if I could just get the fricking spark plug wires together. They are kicking my butt. Anyone have a secret to those? I have a pretty good crimper, but can't seem to get the crimped connector into the boot all the way. They are Taylor wires. Anyway, thanks for all of the info on the starter.
Get some dielectric grease or a can of silicone spray from the parts house. Makes getting subborn wires / boots together a breeze so you don't tear up the wires pulling hard on them.
Thanks everyone. I asked a while back about fuses. Not too many replies. 15amp was said to be ok. Live and learn. Anyway, thanks again. I will try the grease. I had a little on there, seems pretty tight though.
Thanks everyone. I asked a while back about fuses. Not too many replies. 15amp was said to be ok. Live and learn. Anyway, thanks again. I will try the grease. I had a little on there, seems pretty tight though.
A 30A fuse is not a good idea if the wire is smaller than 10ga.
What gauge is the wire to the switch and back to the starter? Also what is the voltage at the small terminal of the starter when you engage it? Connect one lead to the small terminal and one to the engine to see what the voltage is.
You might want to hook a multimeter to both sides of the ignition switch and check the voltage drop across the switch while you crank it over. If your switch is under rated for the starter it could be helping your problem out.
So I did not have to run 10ga. wire all the way around the boat I opted to use a relay mounted near the starter that I control from the starter switch. This allowed me to use a couple of short pieces of 10ga, fused of course, from the battery through the relay, solenoid, and then back to the battery. Never had a problem with it like this.
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