reuseing heads gaskets

[Fiat48]

For the record. I have had bad main studs from arp with extreme stretch problems. Only a couple. I have also had their best rocker studs break.
I no longer stud mains unless someone insists and then I use Milodon studs.
Try this: Torque the head stud using 30 weight oil. Mark the flat on the nut as a reference point. Now clean off all the oil and do this again using the arp lube and see how many ft lbs it takes to line up that reference point.

[GofastRacer]

For the record. I have had bad main studs from arp with extreme stretch problems. Only a couple. I have also had their best rocker studs break.
I no longer stud mains unless someone insists and then I use Milodon studs.
Try this: Torque the head stud using 30 weight oil. Mark the flat on the nut as a reference point. Now clean off all the oil and do this again using the arp lube and see how many ft lbs it takes to line up that reference point.
Wow I guess I must be lucky, never had a problem with ARP mains or head studs, I use their rocker studs too???, but I've never used them on a blown alky motor yet so maybe there's an issue with them??? Have you ever had any issues with Milidon???...
I've tried that test before using different lubes, the results are surprising sometimes!... :jawdrop:

[Fiat48]

The main stud deal was on my own motor. Brand new main studs and when I was torquing...something didn't feel right on 2 studs. Pulled them out and they were stretching. Called arp and told them about it. Asked if they wanted a lot number off the box or whatever as they had a quality control issue. They said "just send us the bad studs and we will replace them." I said the phone call was not about that.....it was to make them aware of the issue.
Probably was a freak deal but the idea of losing a block to a set of bad main studs was not what I was gonna do.
So I never used them and went to Milodon. Have used about 4 sets without an issue.
The rocker stud deal happened twice. Both were arp's finest rocker studs. One was my blown alky motor in the boat and the other a blown daycruiser. Each motor (2 different ones) broke a stud. Closer inspection of the other studs showed the threads were "chipping" ...like the stud was way too hard or something. Both these motors broke the studs in about an hour running time. Caught early there was no other damage to the cruiser but I broke a roller lifter on mine. Freaks you out (and pisses you off) when you buy what you think is the best and it breaks.
On the headbolt torque deal...I measure the same readings using Penzoil racing oil as I did arp lube. So my headbolt torque with arp lube is 65 ft lbs...regardless of what arp says it should be. Works for me. Rod bolts I use stretch gauge anyway.
PS: For those that retorque your heads....mark a flat on the nut..back it off 1/2 turn and then retorque. Using your reference mark..you'll see how much (or if) your heads needed retorquing.

[Stab-n-Steer]

so basically what you are saying is that i over tightened the bolts. even though the spec sheet say to tighten to 80# useing a quality 30wt oil, and 65# useing thier ARP lube. you apperantly didnt read the part were i couldnt even get to the 50# mark, so wether i used oil or thier lube, at what point did i pass the yield strength? also if you read in the post i said i used a replacement bolt from another set and it was fine. now i do agree that #2 would be unlikely unless the back of the UPS truck got ubove 1500 degrees, but you also say its "unlikely" that it could have been from a bad lot. well your opinion is your opinion, but thats the reasoning ARP gave me at the time , saying "we did have a bad batch (or lot)" also saying something like they tried a differant supplier or something like that. now by the information you give you seem to have some great knowlwedge of this and are probably a great engine builder, but from the way i was reading your post you basically say its unlikly that the bolt was faulty and that i must have over tightened it. well again, your opinion.
My extreme apologies if you took my response in the wrong way. In no way did I mean to indicate YOU did something wrong. However after re-reading my post I can see how you took it that way... Again, my apologies! I was just trying to point out possible scenarios... No, I am not a big time motor builder but I am a degreed mechanical engineer so I was just trying to share the possibilities based on my knowledge of metals…
S&S

[victorfb]

My extreme apologies if you took my response in the wrong way. In no way did I mean to indicate YOU did something wrong. However after re-reading my post I can see how you took it that way... Again, my apologies! I was just trying to point out possible scenarios... No, I am not a big time motor builder but I am a degreed mechanical engineer so I was just trying to share the possibilities based on my knowledge of metals…
S&S
not a problem man. i guess i jumped to hard on ya too. sorry about that. i think im just bummed i wont get the new cam in for a while and wanted it in by next weekend for a trip. i hate being broke.lol actually your points are very valid though. but really, that bolt felt like it never started getting tight at all. probably could have pulled it apart by hand. i was freaking when it happened thinking i stripped out the threads in the block when i used the chaser to clean em before the build. when i finally saw the bolt and how much it streched i was actually soooo relieved. a new bolt is by far better than thread repair. anyhow, thanks for the info. good info like that is not allways givin.

[Stab-n-Steer]

I hear you about being bummed (and broke!) I race crackerboxes and at the last race of the 2003 season we granaded a motor. Then last season we hurt the new motor 4 times! Twice with cooling problems, twice with fuel delivery problems (too lean) As a result, we are on a "limited" ($$) schedule for this year... Just dynoed the new motor and figured out our fuel problems so I am optimistic...
Anyway back to your original question, I do reuse Felpro head gaskets. Not on the race motors but if they are on good shape I used them on other motors... Just rebuilt the motor in my kid's '69 Camaro with a recycled set. Some of my racing buddies do reuse them on their motors with no problems. The key is to inspect them carefully. The most vulnerable area is between the two center cylinders. If there is any slight sign of degradation, chuck 'em.
S&S
Ps. I see you are in Falbrook. You should come to see us race in San Diego in September. Would like to meet you in person!

[Danhercules]

dan, the water issues i have are when i slow down and idle the water still seems to be coming into the headers. and after rethinking and checking my set up i noticed that the water lines and the "T" that supplies the headers are above the header inlet lines, so im now thinking im just siphoning whats left in the lines even though the banderlog is closed. i changed the lines yesterday so all water lines are below the headers and will test this soon.
As reliable as the basset "T" can be, I notice a bit of water still commin out too right when I get off the gas. I think its just the water in the lines like you say. I think I got a bit too much water too. I am gonna close mine off a bit.
Do you have a light fog, heavy fog, or drips with your heavy fog. As I understand, you just want a light fog.

[Danhercules]

I'm not sure about ARP using a different supplier, since they are the supplier. They mfg. everything in house, heat treat, etc, but it's not unlikely that they had a bad batch.
They make their own metal? J/k. They have to get the steel somewhere. :mix: