oh-no...

[steelcomp]

There was the worst weak point of the old BB Chevy. Those pressed in rocker studs. ANY of those need to be threaded if you are going to run anything but the mildest cam. :supp:
BB Chev with press in rocker studs??
Learn somethin new every day!!
HD...sometimes it takes quite a while for dry lifters to get pumped up to where they're supposed to be. On a new set, I've learned to just be patient..they slowly come in, and the motor starts running smoother and smoother...sometimes as long as 8-10 min. It used to worry me, but not any more. It was good to err on the side of caution, though. Glad it was nothing more. :coffeycup

[GofastRacer]

BB Chev with press in rocker studs??
Learn somethin new every day!!
Not hardly, small blocks have press in studs. All BB hold the pushrod guide plates with screw in studs!..

[GofastRacer]

On a new set, I've learned to just be patient..they slowly come in, and the motor starts running smoother and smoother...sometimes as long as 8-10 min.
If I replace a set on a used cam I do the same as if it was all new, they still have to be broke in so I just prime it with the drill motor until I see oil flowing out the pushrods, that means lifters are pumped up and motor starts and runs smoothe instantly!..

[meaniam]

my 2 unfortunate examples were small block i since ripped them out with big blocks and only had tranmission problem in turbo 350 sprags not holding up to torque was a fun 630 mile before it let go i am afriad to take a big block above 6500 rpm with a stock bottom half heard they dont hold up now that i have a big block going in the flattie i will have to play it by ear no tach just listen for clunking sounds (also known as rod thrown threw pan oh sh!t my weekend is done) noise over the headers wish me luck
mike :2purples:

[SmokinLowriderSS]

I do apologise for my misstatement about the big block pressed in studs. I just finished 3 digs through my primary big block chevy sourcebook and cannot find what I THOUGHT I had read in there recently and in years past.
My 454 has been howling since 1978 with factory 3/8" rod bolts (the low-strength knurled ones) sucking Nitrous to the tune of 475HP and regular nitrous boosted stands at 5,300 RPM. SHe has occasionally found 6-grand cavitating an emergency turn or airborn moment. The bottom end never let go, even with the factory CAST crank. Since I upgraded her camming and intake this winter, I replaced the rod-bolts with ARP wave-locks, ALL the bearings were worn out as was the timing chain and nylon gear, the 5/16" pushrods with good 3/8"ers. According to my Chevy book, the 454 is reccomended by Chevrolet to withstand 6,200 to 6,600RPM for extended track racing and 7,200RPM for drag racing. The sheer size/weight of those pistons and the lengthy stroke combine to make some violently forceful stops and starts at both ends of piston travel over 6,000RPM. The smaller big blocks are rated for about 400RPM more due to shorter stroke and lighter parts reaching critical piston speds later.

[meaniam]

smoking thank you for taking the time to look up rpm to help me on that. I
cant break out anymore thousand. i need to try and hang onto them, so far in 3 months including yesterdays order of 761 dollars to summit, no real go fast goodies I've spent 8000 dollars, And it has been hell trying to make this boat look respectful.
i am looking for tandem axle trailer for my flattie. anyone have one email me @ meanchevelle@msn.com i reside in so cal

[SmokinLowriderSS]

I know about breeaking out thousands on a budget meaniam.
Winter project 1 - Winter '03-'04: $600 to polyurethane horridly sun scorched gell to bring back color and shine while keeping the jewel flake orriginal appearance. $100 building new interior frames, $500 for new marine vinyl, $2100 labor having the vinyl stitched in the original diamond pattern and put on the frames.
Winter Project 2 - Winter '04-'05 - $100 timing chain before the nylon one died, $400 decided to cam-up, full kit. $80 replaced 5/16" tiny pushrods so cam wouldn't turn into pretzels, $80 ARP rod bolts to replace orriginal small 3/8 inchers, $90 for rod rework, $120 for block deglaze, no bore required, $250 Performer RPM Air Gap manifold, $80 to replace badly rusted oil pan & timing chain cover (went chrome on e-bay), $250 to assemble engine (gaskets& bearings), $100 K&N Filtercharger, $100 for new arched hood to clear taller manifold, $190 for Pro-loader top-loader. :2purples:
The carpeting replacement is for next year now and as I have more motor now (on the Nitrous) than I have guts in Aluminum Berk impeller, I gotta be careful till I can drop a grand on parts to rebuild my jet. I'm running right at 400 clean and 550 on the gas. Seen the result of an exploded impeller and don't want to do it myself Also next year is to flip her over and clean up all the bottom scarring she has.