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Thread: dist problems?

  1. #11
    I'm No Expert shaun's Avatar
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    Searing the pin off is what i though might have happened but i took a some channel locks and a rag and grabed the gear and trying to spin it while holding the shaft in place. End result was i couldnt but i suppose i might not have been able to put enough pressure on it.
    As for the clearance post from lakeonly, i was also thinking that might be the problem. I can see where the gear would sit and i was wondering if the gear was too low. turning the motor over i saw that it pulled the dist down alittle bit. If i pull off the timing/water cover dilio (name?) will i be able to check clearance?
    I'm going to see if i can pull pop the pin out and see if it's intact i guess.

  2. #12
    PETEROC
    We just sheared our 460 Ford dist. gear pin this weekend! It's a Crane roller cam and special steel gear, really wore the teeth on dist. gear too so we will need to buy another gear) Anyway our dist. gear looks like it has been rubbing too much on the block boss. How does one shim it up to raise it slightly to decrease pressure on the boss? Do you shim under the gear or under the dist. flange where is enters and rests on the block. Where do you get the shims. Lastly, does the worn gear teeth mean dropping the pan or are the metal particles so fine it does not matter and filter will catch it thanks

  3. #13
    LakesOnly
    We just sheared our 460 Ford dist. gear! It's a Crane roller cam and special steel gear, really wore the teeth on dist. gear too so we will need to buy another gear. Our dist. gear looks like it has been rubbing too much on the block boss. How does one shim it up to raise it slightly to decrease pressure on the boss? PeterOC,
    We do not place a shim below the gear to decrease pressure on the block boss, and based on what you have posted, it does not sound to me as though you need to shim your distributor to correct your primary problem. If you re-read my post above, you will see that we shim the gear only if it si floating/there is too much clearance between the drive gear and block boss (to take up slack). If you read my post above, you will see that the distributor is thrust downard toward the block's dizzy thrust boss. So shimming that area will only increase the load on the thrust surface, which is not what you want to do.
    I strongly suspect that the reason your block is getting chewed up is because you have installed an aftermarket distributor drive gear onto the distributor shaft, and I'll bet that when you did this you simply drove a roll pin through the new gear and shaft and called it good...assuming the the locating hole on the aftermarket distributor gear was in the correct location. Am I right? Well, I'll bet the new aftermarket distributor gear's roll pin hole is NOT in the correct location on the shaft! Don't assume a part is good just because it is new.
    In order to stop your distributor from further chewing up your block, you need to drive out the roll pin, remove the gear, press on the new gear BUT do not drive the pin in yet! At this point, you need to take some measurments as outlined on the print at the bottom of this post (and also added to my post above). After taking the measurements that are called out in the drawing below, you will likely have to disregard the existing locating hole on that new distributor drive gear and instead drill a new hole through the aftermarket gear in order to get the dimensions into spec. Once the dimensions are correct, you will not shear pins and you will not chew up your block any more.
    (Now, depending on how much you have chewed up the block already, you very well might have to add a shim under the dizzy shaft gear in order to make up for the clearance that was created by the block getting chewed up. You may also carefully measure and then relocate the new gear further down the shaft in order to compensate for this, or you may also repair the block.)
    Finally, you Crane Roller cam probably calls out for a bronze distributor gear and not a steel one, as you noted in your post.
    Read carefully:
    http://www.***boat.com/image_center/...tgearspecs.jpg
    LO

  4. #14
    PETEROC
    Lakesonly, You are correct! We put in a Mallory Unilite with new gear in same location. The gear was a Crane part # 52971-1 which I thought was compatible with their roller cams. I will now put a bronze gear on and position it as you instructed. My dist. thrust boss is not too chewed up, but you can see where it has been rubbing pretty good, also the bottom of the gear is worn too. Thanks for your informative post. I will get this right! BTW, like your FORD website. Especially the Ford/Chevy comparison info. I needed that !

  5. #15
    rrrr
    When I rebuilt my 427FE I paid lots of attention to this issue. Beeg hardened pump drive shaft ( ) and some careful measuring.
    Funny how them Fords blow up when the oil pump quits..... :crossx:

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