shit, with what I have, I run 4500 rpms with an a impeler, and mine is pretty well tweaked over stock, damn, what is wrong with my shit ?
TX19 what I was hoping for when I asked for dyno numbers this time was that a few may have dynoed their BBF with different combos ie, cam "A", manifold "B", carb "C" .. that way I would have a better idea of which combo would work for me. Believe me, I read your other post :-) While we're discussing this, does anyone know if "Desk top Dyno" will give you many options as to what combos you can play with?
I've got a performer rpm for sale.Going to a victor jr.
H8Monday, here is a couple links to sites dedicated to Fords. They're a buncha car guys but are pretty knowledgable about Fords in general. They probably wouldn't be able to help with cam selection due to our requirements being somewhat different than theirs but I've found them to be helpful in several instances.
http://www.fordmuscle.com/boardpower/boardpower.cgi
http://www.p-c-net.net/~fordman/Tech...Tech-page.html
Drew, from Drew Marine, Spokane, Washington, developed a very good Ford combination that was in the Hot Boat magazine last Winter. This guy knows what he talks about when he talks Ford.
Just so you all know: All BB Ford heads (385 series, i.e. 370, 429, 460) came with air injection knobs in the exhaust. Whether or not they were actually drilled for use depends on application/year. C8, C9, D0 VE heads were all the same design, specs. Just different years. C8='68, C9='69 and so on. Chambers started changing sizes in '73, hence the D3 castings on the 460's. BB Fords appreciate a good port job paying specific attention to the exhaust. Ford actually DE-tuned the exhausts to make LESS power to keep insurance companies happy and transmissions alive. They also seem to not have a problem with lot's of lift. The flow charts on all the heads I've ported(BBF) don't level off. They just keep flowing!! Alot of heads quit anywhere between .500 and .600. If you're gonna run stock heads, don't bother with anything over .550 lift. Won't do much. If you have them ported, go crazy. Just remember, Fords have a VERY heavy valvetrain. Beef it up if you want to run some revs. We're talking guideplates, 3/8" pushrods, full roller(BTW, lot's of manufacturers make roller tip rockers, they do help in more ways than one) rockers, expensive valves(it's the only way to be sure!) and good springs. Bottom end? Have you seen a BBF main cap/crank/rods? Stud the mains, ARP the rods, balance and never look back! Well, sorry for being so long, just trying to help! Any more questions, just ask!
Hey mister 460 are the dove castings equiped with adjustable valves,I do know they have screw in studs but heard they are not the adjustable type and if they are not what will i need hear that the bbc studs will work also.
D0VEs are adjustable from the factory but they use a 3/8" nut. The 7/16" studs are the same from Ford to Chevy. You can even use most BB Chevy rocker arms. But there's really no difference in cost. Get some guideplates, new studs and some full roller rockers. You won't be dissapointed.
Got to throw my two cents in here for what it's worth. While i'm not a ford guy(chevy guy) as far as knowledge is concerned. My experience with lunati cams is that there cams are hit and miss JUNK!, would not use it if you gave me one. If you want garanteed performance stay with engle cams, and you can't beat there customer service too.
Remember it's just two cents
I would have to say that Lunati Cams Suck also!!! i had one in my 289 that I had all sorts of weird problems with! Turns out it was miss ground, which caused me 6 months of pulling my hair out!!!!! I pulled that piece of shit out and put in a used SMALLER Erson cam I got from a friend, and Wow no more problems, it was faster, and still going on 5 years now!!! DONT BUY LUNATI!!!!! Anything but!
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