Reply With QuoteBryan,
What brand is your filter? Stock location on the block? More than 1 filter?
What brand oil?
Hey Paul,
The issue doesn't seem to be a pickup related issue(unless it's too close to the bottom of the pan) in that the pressure seemed to drop off with rpm, not necessarily acceleration.. 40 or so at 2 grand, 32 or so at 3500 and above. I have to say that I didn't pay a lot of attention on deceleration. I'm kicking myself for not paying attention to the oil pressure last time, other than noting that I had some. In troubleshooting the carb issue, the front 2 cylinders were running extremely wet for 30 inutes or so.. wet foul and then some. I think my oil is toast. I think it was upwards of 60 psi cold. The interesting thing to me is that even if the oil is thinner than it should be because of the possible gas contamination, why would the pressure decrease with rpm? :idea:
I have always thought the large journals of the ford create a bunch of heat & will airerate(SP) the oil. Thats at least what I found with the Ford.
Personaly I do not like multi-weights. I preffer higher straight weights. They require more warm up time. But I have had more consistant results.
Bryan,
What brand is your filter? Stock location on the block? More than 1 filter?
What brand oil?
Lakes,
Yes my old Hondo ran a 460 w/ 429 pedestal heads. 10.5:1 comp. Hydraulic cam. Offy tunnel ran & dual 750's.
It pushed the heavy circle runner hondo to 85 mph.
85mph in a heavy boat with nothing more than an iron motor, production parts and a mere 10.5:1...pretty damn impressive.
LO
I have always thought the large journals of the ford create a bunch of heat & will airerate(SP) the oil. Thats at least what I found with the Ford.
Personaly I do not like multi-weights. I preffer higher straight weights. They require more warm up time. But I have had more consistant results.
Never head that one before (aeration) in regards to the large journals. In fact, I know a couple of guys that push more than 80 psi past 8500 & 9500 rpm, respectively, 20-25 seconds at a time and don't lose oil pressure or have oiling problems. Also, although the bearing speed point is theoretically correct I question how significant the oil temp increase is with the 3.00" main journal versus the chevy size; the 385 Series has a great base oiling sytem. Any bearing speed concern is easily alleviated by way of clearances and other simple oiling mods...if you're running sustained rpms that high and think it's really necessary.
I'm betting that Speedaddict's oiling symptoms stem from elsewhere...
LO
I'ts a fram in the stock location, screwed right into the block. Oil is kendall 20/50. I was kind of thinking oil filter blockage, with the decreasing psi/rpm, but don't these filters have a bypass? I hear that fram isn't the ticket. Any filter recomendations? Dang, 85 in the hondo is scooting. We had my sanger up to 78 today on the gps, but I didn't really feel like pushing it past 5k with the oil issue, so we turned in early.
FRAM? :hammerhea
Ditch The Fram. NOW.
I know guys that had similar symptoms as yours. Changed out the Fram filter and the problem disappeared (on more than one occasion/motor).
I don't care to get into a filter brand trip...just try something off the shelf that is of better quality than Fram, to see if your oil pressure acts differently. Perhaps a Purolator or Hastings or even a Ford FL1A.
If you have the room (stringer clearance, etc.) try a taller filter. The more pleat area of an oil filter, the greater the reduction in pressure required to flow a given amount of volume through that filter. Therefore, if you are running a high volume oil pump, it would be wise to have a filter that is longer and/or has more pleat area. Besides, you engine's oil capacity is effectively increased this way (splitting hairs).
Try a synthetic oil too. For example, you can get Mobil 1 15W/50 at Wal-Mart for $20 for 5 quarts.
LO
Thanks all. I've heard bad things about the fram too, but it was on there when I got it so didn't think much of it. Good idea about getting a taller filter. It's already a pretty long one, but I may have more room. I'll have to look at some catalogs. I heard that mobil 1 makes some good filters too. Do you think I should bother cutting apart the fram to see if there are any bits of debris/metal in there, or should I chalk it up to possibly contaminated oil and a poor quality filter, and just put good oil and filter in?
Do you think I should bother cutting apart the fram to see if there are any bits of debris/metal in there, or should I chalk it up to possibly contaminated oil and a poor quality filter, and just put good oil and filter in?
We don't know what is causing your oil pressure symptoms, but yes you should change your oil and filter and then see how your prssure responds.
It never hurts to cut open and inspect your old filter. If you do not have a tool for doing just this, then you may need to resort to a hacksaw. Do not misinterpret the hacksaw filings as metal debris in your filter. Cut at the end where the filter is stamped together, remove the cartridge and read between the pleats. Have plenty of dropcloths for the oily mess.
LO
sounds like a plan.. I'll refresh, and cut apart the filter. I'll post my findings.
Thanks,
Bryan
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