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Thread: Anyone running a hydraulic roller cam in a jet?

  1. #11
    wet77
    After advice from HTP I am going with a roller mechanical and am just goingto have to learn how to set valve lash :frown:
    Hope it gives me the fun I am looking for and not to many headaches
    Its that need for speed Ya know :2purples:

  2. #12
    Liberator TJ1984
    Once everything gets broken in , you should be able to set lash and run all season if you set everything right
    I run a solid roller 632 lift and usually ck & set once a season , ( but my lift and duration is mild for a roller )unless I hear something strange
    Run a good quality stud girdle and locking nuts , that helps alot to make sure settings stay put

  3. #13
    XClutchboy725
    It's all got to be a balanced system wet77. 6,000 rpm is a LOT of revs to turn anyhow for extended periods and you need solid parts to do it reliably, both in the valvetrain and the lower end. IMHO the higher revs are much more suited to roller lifters (hydraulic or not) than to flat lifters. My hydraulics are Isky Superlifters, "guaranteed" not to pump up till over 7,000RPM. My 454 is NEVER gonna see 7-large unles I am airborne and asleep at the same time. Lotsa guys are running more lift than I am at .565 but I have to keep a lake-boat running good to pull skiiers/tubes as well as have good breathing muscle on top. The 454 is designed for 6,200 to 6,600 RPM for extended time like track racing, I have to assume the 540 being so much larger with heavier parts and a longer stroke is going to red-line that much lower. Possibly below 6,000RPM.
    I think your decision on roller or not is best determined by how much lift you plan to run and what your corresponding spring rates are going to be. At a certain pressure, the springs will be killing a flat tappet hydraulic cam. I bought my new cam in a kit with the lifters and springs, all from Iskendarian. Let somebody that knows more than me decide what is the best balanced setup for the performance I want. I just decided lift, duration, overlap, and style (with advice from DuaneHTP) blended with my budget.
    I suppose none of this long-winded soapbox speech was a help. sorry if it wasn't.
    not longwinded.....just good advice in my opinion.

  4. #14
    XClutchboy725
    680/680 lift and no problems. Hustler even has a bigger cam then me, but I'm not sure what RPM he's turning.
    HBjet
    Randy, What RPM at WOT?

  5. #15
    flat broke
    Randy, What RPM at WOT?
    I'm guessing he's spinning between 6 and 6200. I know Hacker was able to spin his impeller to 6 even, and he and Randy's mills were similar in terms of HP and they were both sportin MPD "B" impellers
    We gonna see you in August Jeff?
    Chris

  6. #16
    XClutchboy725
    I'm sad to report that we won't be able to attend the CBBB this year. :cry:
    My family made arrangements early this year to rent a houseboat on Lake Shasta for a week. Unfortunately, those plans conflict with the same weekend.
    It will be a bittersweet vacation. This will be the first CBBB we've missed.

  7. #17
    Jet City
    After advice from HTP I am going with a roller mechanical and am just goingto have to learn how to set valve lash :frown:
    Hope it gives me the fun I am looking for and not to many headaches
    Its that need for speed Ya know :2purples:
    If you go with a mechanical roller, get the lifters that have a pin oiling feature such as Comp Endura, Isky red zone or Crower Hippo, this will supply oil to the roller during idle and live much longer in a lake boat application. Like Liberator said, stud girdles will help keep things in adjustment longer, be sure to get stud girdle specific rocker studs (less runout, better fitment).

  8. #18
    wet77
    Plan to go with Dart pro 1 cnc heads and titanium retainers with Inconol Exhaust valves

  9. #19
    NELSON#109
    solid roller is the way to go. adjusting the valves isnt that hard after you do it a few times, and if you do it right the first time, you should be able to make it all season w/o any adjustment. ive run solids all season, and i boat about 150 hrs a year (used to at least). dont be afraid of them. if you boat a lot, pull the valve covers after about 25 hrs n check em. i just checked mine after the last race. over 900 hp, ran it up to 8300 rpms on several launches, and it runs 7600 down the track. after the race, they havent moved. seven passes. you did the right thing by talking with duane, i think he will get you hooked up w/ the right cam. now go out n hold it to the floor till ur eyes melt. nelson#109

  10. #20
    SmokinLowriderSS
    Thx xClutchboy, I try.
    Lotsa guys here have more experience than I do making heavy-breathing motors and tuning jets so I learn more than I pass along most of the time. It's a good thing. I do try to stay awake in class.

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