Reply With QuotePayloan, do you know what is wrong with your drive? Is it damaged if so what is damaged? Sometimes it is cheaper to buy a new or reman'd drive from Mercury than it is to rebuild yours. You will get a better warranty also.
Just a regular stock Bravo 1 '98 or '99
Payloan, do you know what is wrong with your drive? Is it damaged if so what is damaged? Sometimes it is cheaper to buy a new or reman'd drive from Mercury than it is to rebuild yours. You will get a better warranty also.
In that regard, it should be the same as my '01. You know FOR SURE that the prop was not removed?
The fill/drain plug is on the very bottom. After you remove the prop, it is just below the lower end bearing carrier.
It has to be filled from there to push the air out of all the nooks and crannys. After the oil starts dribbling out of the vent hole at the top/side. The rest CAN be filled from the monitor bottle. Personallly, since the pump is hooked up already. I like the insurance of putting the vent plug back in, and finishing the filling from the bottom. Push the oil all the way to the full line of the bottle.
Good thing it wasn't an airplane. The last authority after having work done is the pilot. After an oil change, if the pilot doesn't check the oil before flight, it's his/hers error. Sure one can yell at the mechanic for not filling the oil, but if it is flown, it's the pilot's mistake.
I do my own boat maint., but if I have anything done, I will check it over before running. I am sure you know this now, but it can help.
Payloan first says (drive off boat) that to me means a carry in bench job.
Then he says "HE" which I assumed is the shop or person working on his boat pulled the drive.
When I read (probably his fock up) I assumed he is THINKING AND PAYLOAN IS ASSUMING IT WAS THE SHOPS OR PERSON WORKING ON HIS BOAT FAULT.
Shadow do you know the person or the shop that payloan is talking about? I don't. How can you give an estimate without tearing down the drive? Again I assumed.
I am quite sure there are some other shops around that could fix his drive
Is his drive a stock bravo? I don't think everyone takes their drives to Max?
And yes I do have a shop in San Diego and have been a Mercruiser and Mercury dealer and certified rerpair center for over 18 yrs.
Sorry for the Sarcasim but we are always the bad guys. Nobody likes to work for free. I know I don't. $100.00 to remove and tear down and give an estimate on a drive. I wouldn't do it for that. I don't think Max would either.
I realize that mechanics in general have a rep as the bad guys.I'm with you noone likes to work for free.I'm a certified Ford mechanic and i get paid flate rate.But let me say as much as noone likes to work for free,if i do a repair and it comes right back with a check engine light,we don't charge the customer to diag the light.Or worse if i do a head gasket and it comes back knocking,we don't charge the customer to find out why.We diag first then determine if it was related."if i forgot" to put oil in the engine after a repair"or servivce.I eat an engine and the labor!! Thats what makes the difference between a reputable mechanic that stands behind thier work and the "bad guy rep"If the story is like payloan says his mechanic should pull the drive take it to his builder and eat it if infact he either forgot or neglected to change the drive oil.He was the last one to touch it and if there was a problem he should have caught it.Aaron @Absolute services my boat not that i can't but because i'm either working or boating and easier to pay and have it ready.I gaurantee you that if he just serviced my drive and first trip out it ran out of oil he'd pull it check it out and handle it if he forgot the oil or the fill plug came loose or hoses he just installed leaked the oil out.Thats why he's got such a good reputation.If ran the drive up on the beach and caused it thats a different story and there would be external tell tale signs.(But no oil in payloans drive after being serviced)Trust me i'm all for making money turning wrenches thats what pays for my boating and everything else.But it burns my ass when someone charges for a service and either doesn't do it,or doesn't catch potential problems in advance.No worries about any sarcasim
I go in pay $300.00 for a COMPLETE service. At this same time of service he told me that I should replace the 4 small hoses at the bottom of the drive. When I picked it up I noticed that they were not the normal braided type but rather a black hard hose type. . I get back in town and drop off one of my nephews and notice that the drive is all the way down and that fluid is leaking from guess where... those hoses that "were just as good as the other ones" (maybe they are maybe there not I don't know, does anybody here know) When I finnally get it over to him he sees the drive tied up with a rope and I show him the fluid stilled kind of bubbled around the hoses he gets his wrench and a couple are loose.
Those four small hoses are for the trim rams. The fact they were leaking are why the drive was all the way down when you got back to town.
There is no relation at all to the drive oil itself.
Now I know this cannot cause a bearing to go but I Just thoght I would give the whole story. First thing he does is check the drive oil by unscrewing the screw at the top, you can hear the pressure being released as he is unscrewing, takes off the top plate and says theres no oil. He then takes off the prop and fills the drive up. MY QUESTION IS THIS; Can you fill up the drive from the screw at the top?
The loss of trim fluid will not cause a bearing failure in the drive.
Yes, the drive can be filled from the top vent screw, as well as right from the top with the bearing cap removed.
The recommended procedure is from the bottom though, to reduce the chance of air pockets forming.
Most late model Bravos have a reservoir somewhere on the engine as well as a low level alarm, did the alarm go off?
And just so I get it.... did the drive grenade? or was it making a noise? or ws the issue the leaking hoses?
BTW, the hoses should really be stainless.
Max Machine in Havasu...... :wink:
Quit messin' around..... :boxingguy
Later,
CJG
He is concerned about $100 easy change compared to a Max drive 7 to 8K
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And just so I get it.... did the drive grenade? or was it making a noise? or ws the issue the leaking hoses?[/QUOTE]
It was making "clangin" noise and they said the bearing traveled through all the gears. The casing itself is o.k.
He is concerned about $100 easy change compared to a Max drive 7 to 8K
Trust me don,t have money falling outof the bottom of my pant legs but t's the point of the matter because I know were not ging to end on good terms I just antd to make sure that I acted properly to the situation at hand.
Trust me don,t have money falling outof the bottom of my pant legs but t's the point of the matter because I know were not ging to end on good terms I just antd to make sure that I acted properly to the situation at hand.
Sounds like finding a $2-3000 rebuilt/exchange B-1 would be what you are looking for. If metal traveled through it, you are looking at a full rebuild anyway, head to toe. Just replacing the one bearing that failed will not work (well, maybe for a few more hours, but not long), so all bearings and seals need replacement. A rebuilt one will be about the same $ as someone rebuilding yours and you will save yourself the down-time.
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