If it's blown or I see a blower in it's future, the block get's O ringed. I don't run receiver grooves in the head. I use piano wire and cut the block with a hand operated tool so that the wire will protrude .015 out of the block. Unless it is blown alcohol with high static compression in which case I stick the wire up .020.
I use silicone sealant around all the water holes and the head studs and I have never blown a head gasket, pushed one or had a water leak. I reuse the head gaskets about 5 times or until I feel air creep from cylinder to cylinder (no valve train) with a leakdown tester.
Works for me.
Hallelujah! Finally, someone agrees with me! This is the same way I build motors ... never have problems, unless I run too thin off head gaskets ... like I did at the last race(s) ... .045" @ 40 lbs of boost ... this equals a bad time. So I figure, .065", no receiver groove ... 40 lbs, should be fine. I've spoken to Ron Braaksma, Amos Saterlee & Ralph Gorr ... and they agree.
So I agree with your post ... and I will find out at the next race, and hopefully, I will be correct. Unfortunately, I think I am pushing much more boost than most. But in the Top Alcohol Dragster, we push more boost ... while it's a BRAD motor ... it should all have the same characterisitcs, it doesn't. 50 lbs doesn't blow anything, while 40 lbs in the boat blows fast.
Maybe it's the thickness of the headgaskets. This is the first time I blew them (making 40 lbs.)