It looks like you had a little heat around the wiring, maybe you should check that first.
I have a question in regards to using the Banderlog electronic valve and a thermostat. I bought both of them at the same time so I have never run them separately and I am not sure where my solution to my problem exists.
It seems that I am not getting enough water flowing to my over the transom headers at higher RPMs. I find this odd because I would think that pressure and flow would increase to the Banderlog valve and headers as RPMÂ’s increase. I am wondering if there is not enough back pressure to the Banderlog valve due to the use of the thermostat. Is anyone out there running the Banderlog valve and a thermostat or has anyone ever heard of anyone having this problem while using both the Banderlog valve and a thermostat?
I have included a couple pictures of my set-up incase someone has some other suggestions. I have checked the Banderlog valve and it is not clogged and it is coming on at 1500 RPM's.
http://www2.***boat.com/image_center...Thermostat.JPG
http://www2.***boat.com/image_center...6Plumbing3.JPG
http://www2.***boat.com/image_center...76Plumbing.JPG
http://www2.***boat.com/image_center...6Plumbing1.JPG
http://www2.***boat.com/image_center...6Plumbing2.JPG
http://www2.***boat.com/image_center...6Plumbing4.JPG
It looks like you had a little heat around the wiring, maybe you should check that first.
you ought to go ask the man himself, www.banderlog.com (www.banderlog.com) then click on the discussion forum link
From your pics it's hard to tell, but it looks like you are drawing water for the Banderlog valve from your coolant dump line. It needs to be hooked into the water inlet from the pump BEFORE the engine.
Hey Jerry, I do not use the thermostat set-up, but arent the bottom fittings to the thermo housing the bypass outlets that should be hooked up to the inlet Ts on the front of the engine, and the upper outlets are for the water coming out to be dumped when the thermostat opens? If that is true, then when you thermostat opens, the bypass closes, thus not enough water exiting to feed the headers.
I would ask RexOne to look at it to see about the thermo hook up, but I think OldSquirt has the right answer, plumb the banderlog from the inlet, so it always has a water supply.
And I could always be wrong. It has been known to happen once, or twice. :hammer2:
No, the top two holes are fot the bypass. The bottom two are dump lines
Ya learn something new every day! Thanks :idea:
Jerry, disregard most of my ramblings above........
Hey Jerry, I do not use the thermostat set-up, but arent the bottom fittings to the thermo housing the bypass outlets that should be hooked up to the inlet Ts on the front of the engine, and the upper outlets are for the water coming out to be dumped when the thermostat opens? If that is true, then when you thermostat opens, the bypass closes, thus not enough water exiting to feed the headers.
I would ask RexOne to look at it to see about the thermo hook up, but I think OldSquirt has the right answer, plumb the banderlog from the inlet, so it always has a water supply.
And I could always be wrong. It has been known to happen once, or twice. :hammer2:
Here is the diagram Roger. I have it set up right.
http://www2.***boat.com/image_center...Thermostat.jpg
From your pics it's hard to tell, but it looks like you are drawing water for the Banderlog valve from your coolant dump line. It needs to be hooked into the water inlet from the pump BEFORE the engine.
Oldsquirt
Look at my plumbing pictures again you will see the first Tee, that Tee flows water to the metering valve and then to the Banderlog valve. I put a water pressure gauge on the intake manifold and noticed that the block pressure was variable. I ran the boat on the lake at 3,000 RPM and the block pressure would run between 12 to 19 psi. I am thinking that the block pressure decreases with a dump cycle and increases when the thermostat closes.
http://www2.***boat.com/image_center...umbing-med.JPG http://www2.***boat.com/image_center...derlog-med.JPG
Move the "tee" for the Banderlog valve to the unregulated side of the inlet water regulator or control valve. Need to have full pressure and flow available. Should allow you to close the valve on the Banderlog down quite a ways and still have a good "fog" at cruise and wide open throttle.