Reply With QuoteCheck this out (http://www.liquidaddiction.net/wiring.htm)
first let say this never ran points before always hei. so with that out of the way. im doing my boat. 454 with tunnel ram. hei wont clear intake. i need to understand how to set this up i see 1 black wire coming from dist. one new coil and one new ballast resestor. i want to take power from the igniton switch. i hooked it up the way i thought it should be and the ballast started smoking. must be doing this wrong. any help would be great. not looking for someone to say msd or something else
thanks
mike
Check this out (http://www.liquidaddiction.net/wiring.htm)
It is normal for a new ballast resistor to smoke when you first put power to it. The ceramic material gets on the resistance coil, and burns off within a few seconds to a minute or so. The power from the switch is reduced as it passes through the ballast, and that creates heat. You probably have it wired right. MP
thanks mike
i was really hoping someone would post wiring diagram. i looked at the diagram it looks like i hooked it all up right. so know i am kicking around this idea. im not sure what year chevy switched from 6 volt to 12 volt system. i think the ballast resistor i asked for was for a 57 chevy. idea 2. maybe junction box has a problem. or wiring at one time in this harness had devolped a short from heating wires up (to much draw) or something so ? is. does a 57 chevy run 12 volt system or 6 volt system\
mike
Chevy change to 12 volt in 1955.
I do not remember a chevy running a balast resistor. They used 9 volt coils instead. The 54 Ford, and subsequent fords for many years used ballast resistors. The one you bought is probably the universal "RU12" or simular in a brand other than standard ignition. As I said, they WILL smoke when 1st used, nothing to worry about........MP
Ray, Chevrolet used resistor wire.
Some GM used resistor type wire, and some used 9 volt coils. The coils actually said 9 volts right on them. As I said the fords were the home of ballast resistors back when......And they do smoke the first time used.....MP
ok tired of trying to figure this points distrubtor out hooked everything up right. went and bought new coil diffrent ballest and dist. im done with it, not becuase its working becuase i cant figure it out. wiring is just as rex diagram shows everything there is tits. 9 volt to power supply at coil. no spark from dist or from coil. cant freakin belive this thing kicked my ass. cant f@ck with this no more.i wont make the 4th of july if i mess with this more. going to get petronics and have a bud do the dist so all i have to do is drop it then adjust my liftes. proably better that way any how. they wont burn out. feeler guage to check gap. oh hell no what were they thinking back then.with the petronics i can throw away the ballest run str8 12 volts to coil. rex i need to know if you sell petronix ign for big block in stock i also need the divertor tee for my bassett headers :eat:
i still need to test this boat make sure it floats, buy insurance in case it dont. try and find a tandem trailer to switch with, fix all other problem make a new wiring harness. install interior
hey mike with my prop shaft sticking thru the floor and both support fully monted should i be able to move my shaft side to side or is it to be tight cassell not installed yet.
way more work then i ever planned
Meaniam make sure you have the "start" wire from the solenoid (full 12V) to the coil hooked up. This shoots a full 12 for cranking. It won't start if you don't have it and you won't see spark cranking either. It is the other small terminal on the side of a typical Chevy Solenoid (it comes off the "R" terminal in that diagram). Check the voltage at the coil while cranking.
I do have T valves coming in shortly, none at this moment, no Pertronix, I'd recommend the MSD Ready to Run if you make a change (which I don't necessarily think you need to do). Ready to Run MSD requires no box and is plenty sufficient for what you're doing.
Posting Permissions