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Thread: help rail kit/ bellhousing/flywheel cover

  1. #11
    sanger rat
    Don't freak out yet! Do you have any pics so we can see whats going on? So far you are getting help from a Chevy and a Mopar guy. I'm sure the Ford boys will be along shortly.

  2. #12
    atxwrangler
    i don't have any pics now, and i am going out of town tomorrow. i may post some next week! thanks again.hey , my buddy here in victoria has a sanger jet hydro like yours, he has a badass 532 ford built for it, he is about 4 or 5 thousand away from completing the total resto on it. sweet boat!

  3. #13

  4. #14
    atxwrangler

  5. #15
    sanger rat
    Nice. Can you PM me his number. I would like to talk to him. That looks like the same boat I seen on web site but I couldn't find it again.

  6. #16
    wsuwrhr
    So far you are getting help from a Chevy and a Mopar guy. I'm sure the Ford boys will be along shortly.
    The guy was freaking out about his problem so I thought I would try and help.
    Brian

  7. #17
    sanger rat
    The guy was freaking out about his problem so I thought I would try and help.
    Brian
    Same here.

  8. #18
    dave186
    i think on the fords the starter bolts to the motor plate, so it would be right where it normally is. and yes, i have a ford,

  9. #19
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    2,920
    the starter usually bolts to the bellhousing ,if you put a 1/2 '"plate in between the starter and bellhousing, the starter bendix will only reach out as far as it did before.would it hit the motor plate? question is can i run a regular bellhousing with a rail kit, or do i have to purchase a flywheel cover? :eat:
    Here's what I did with my BBF when I made the conversion to the rail system. I made a sandwich out of the old bell housing and the new plate.
    You can see the black magic marker lines indicating where I was going to have the "feet" and other areas not needed to be milled off. Basically I was left with a flywheel cover and the area where the pigs nose is (starter). The starter actually bolts to the rail plate and the old mount/bell housing is just used as a guard for the flywheel and starter. Six bolts hold on the old cover/mount, and also go through the rail plate/mount.
    It worked out real slick, and best of all................it was free!
    http://jetboat.homestead.com/files/flywheelcovert.jpg
    In this picture you can see the two plates on the back of the block.
    http://jetboat.homestead.com/files/inboat2backt.jpg
    Truth is, I was having trouble finding a bell housing cover and when I finally did, I wasn't gonna pay that much for one.

  10. #20
    Mighty Thor
    Here is what I remember from the last truck set up. Normally The bell housing sits against the spacer that is sandwhiched between the block and bellhousing Spacer is not real thick but if you leave it out the starter will bind. When we switched to a frame mount we just made sure that the starter lined up in the same relationship by keeping the spacer. We used longer bolts to reach through the mounting plate into the bellhousing and had to have a tranny with a little longer input shaft to reach the clutch disk. As long as your starter stays in the same location relative to the block you should not have any problems by moving the bellhousing back, just add shims and longer bolts as needed. This assumes that there is not any interference between the rear plate and the starter.

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