Reply With QuoteLeave the Rad. cap off. Run it untill the thermostat opens then add more water.
i replaced the engine in a 96 chevy cavalier its a 2.2 4cyl. and now the the temp gauge does not work. are you suppose to bleed the water system some how so there are not any air pockets? need to get this done help.
pat(slotracer)
Leave the Rad. cap off. Run it untill the thermostat opens then add more water.
this is the type that has the reservor on top that you add water to.
pat(slotracer) :messedup:
You still need to fill the radiator first. The overflow deal is just that, an overflow, when the water heats and expands the overflow deal fills, and when it cools back down that coolant returns to the radiator. The opening of the thermostat is the critical part of the refill, like was said leave the cap off until the level drops rapidly, and fill. Then cap it off and the fill the overflow deal to the cold mark. Also, beware that the sender is measuring continuity to ground. If you loaded up the sender with teflon tape you may not be getting a proper grounding effect. To check the gauge, simply ground the wire to the block, the gauge should go full scale, hot.............MP
Pat, I just did what you're doing for a buddy. I think the temp sensor is in the thermostat housing. Check the wire connector. There is several ways to bleed the air from the system. 1. Drill 1/8 th hole in topside of thermostat and pump upper hose after filling rad. [my favorite] 2. Loosen temp sensor at thermostat till water runs out, then tighten. 3. Leave thermostat out while filling rad till water runs out, then install thermostat. Budlight
there was a bleed valve on the housing that i was able to bleed it with. as far as leaving off the rad. cap it does not have one to leave off. now the fan stays on all the time and the temp gauge looks like it goes backwards when you turn the ing. key on.
pat(slotracer) :hammer2:
Perhaps you have the wires to the fan thermoswitch and temp sender mixed up?
they all only go one way different shapes and sizes.
pat(slotracer) :cry:
Did you transfer the switches/senders from the old engine to the new one?
Was everything working properly before the engine swap?
heres the whole story. the girl i work with brought the car to a shop because it started running bad the shop installed a new computor then said it needed a bunch more work. had towed to different shop only to find out the #3 piston was no longer in the hole. dropped a valve destroyed engine. i installed new engine reinstalling all the sending units from one engine to the other. the battery light is on, the speedo does not work, the fan stays on and the gauge looks like its reading backwards. does the new computor need to be reset to send out the right codes to the engine?
pat(slotracer) :boxingguy
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