Reply With Quote10 in 10 out. 8 to the headers. Run a pressure relief valve.
Starting to plan the reassembly of my boat. Its been apart for far too long and a lot has changed since it was together last.
What size inlet hose do you recommend coming form the pump? I presume I should T that line before running water into the block.- If so, what size should these lines be? Ill be running OT headers with water injection, does it matter what size the exit line is? I have some 8 AN water dumps that i would like to use, will one of them be sufficcient to get all the water out or should I use 2?
Theoretical question-considering the amount of pressure a jet pump can generate, does it really matter what size output line is when I can just adjust the regulator up or down to control the input? Motor is a big HP N/A 548 and cooling will be an issue.
10 in 10 out. 8 to the headers. Run a pressure relief valve.
Went though a milkshake (water in the oil three times) before i final wised up rex marine themo kit 99 bucks comes with all the suff the pressure from the jet is a killer the kit has a bypass to keep the pressure down my motor with out it always ran 105-110 degrees now 160-180 i love it and nothing to adjust and is already setup for your water inj. ext. my two cents.
Engine builder says no go on the thermostat. Due to compression we are running block needs to stay cooler than normal.
Will a 10 in, 10 out design allow pressure to build up, seems like it wouldn't. School me please if Im wrong.
With a motor like that you want to move lots of water through it. Especially if it is going to be a pump gasser. I would concentrate on water volume not pressure and keep it around 120*. Use a pressure regulating device before water enters the engine & set it at 25#. Minimum #10 in and out as said above. Let us know how that monster runs.
RCB, thanks for the advice. Im the guy that bought the water dumps from you. Thanks again. Hows the boat running? Back together yet?
Okay, that makes 2 that say 10 in, 10 out. How do I deliver the water to the block? I assumed the two inlets at the front of the block would both be used. Is that not the case? I was hoping to use one of my 8an fittings for the exit, can I use 2 or should I get a 10?
My blown BBC has a #10 in from pump to the pressure regulator set at 25psi,#10 to a tee, 2each #8 to front of block, 2 each #8 from thermostat housing to overboard dumps. Off another intake port, I have a manual valve mounted between my legs to regulate water, #8 into Bassett tee/with no spring or ball, then to headers. I left those out because it makes so little pressure that the Bassett valve won't work! I just have to remember to shut it off at idle. I also tapped the #8 male to #8 male fitting at header lines with an 1/8th pipe tap and screwed in a brass pipe plug, then I drilled it with a .065 drill bit, makes a great water restrictor. Budlight ps. Actually I never turn the water on unless I see a COP!
-10 from the jet with a regulator inline then to a "T" or "Y" fitting to 2 -8 lines entering the front of the block (water pump area).Then you will have 2 hoses coming out of the thermostat area. One will be a -10 and one will be a -6. Run the 10 overboard with a ball valve inline and the 6 up to a valve up by your seat to control water to the headers then back to a "T" or "Y" then to the headers.One other thing you might wanna do is weld up the brass fittings in the bassets and re-drill them to a much smaller ID.
Thats how mines set up, Im sure your engine builder wants something similar in yours.
This is the setup I used on my old Blown Alcohol BBC
http://www.hotboatpics.com/pics/data...plumbing_3.jpg
-10 from the jet with a regulator inline then to a "T" or "Y" fitting to 2 -8 lines entering the front of the block (water pump area).Then you will have 2 hoses coming out of the thermostat area. One will be a -10 and one will be a -6. Run the 10 overboard with a ball valve inline and the 6 up to a valve up by your seat to control water to the headers then back to a "T" or "Y" then to the headers.One other thing you might wanna do is weld up the brass fittings in the bassets and re-drill them to a much smaller ID.
Thats how mines set up, Im sure your engine builder wants something similar in yours.
Thanks man. That sounds good.
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