Reply With Quotewhat's the bottom of the hull like? any hook or rocker?
Ok I dropped the ride plate from 5* up to 1.5* up. in .5* increments The porpoise got better each time but never really cleared up. I installed a MPD loader this week and Jack told me 1.5 was way to low and i needed to get back up around 4*. So i put the loader on and plate to 4* up. Boat handled the mild chop better but on smooth water still porpoises at speeds over 50mph. I still have to keep the place diverter in full down to have any amount of driveability. even 1 notch up starts a porpoise. Seems like even at full down the bow is ridding really high.
Anyone have any thoughts?
thanks
what's the bottom of the hull like? any hook or rocker?
No.. bottom is blueprinted.. jack seems to think that may be some of my problem because i got it to straight.
boat also has Wedge 2* up, Berk Droop, back cut shoe, and setback pump (intake is set at 4*).
Also another thing i noticed that i thought would clear up with the loader but didn't is the porpoise gets so bad that it will cavitate very easy.
I'm Thinking 2 things.. the boat is running to high in the water and is carrying the Bow to much. At full down diverter the bow seems to have a up angle to it. I'm thinking if i could get the boat to carry the bow at that height with the diverter straight it would allow the transom to settle down a little instead of having all that help from the down angle pushing up on the transom and down on the bow. Not to mention it would probably be a lot quicker. with out all the extreme angle changes.
thanks
Try taking that 2* up wedge out. Or will this cause your droop & diverter to drag in the water? Most boats need to wedge the droop down for best performance.
Is this a drag boat ???
If not, I will tell you that 4* up is way too much, on most hulls you will get a porpoise and then add 2* up wedge. Holy hell, your trying to drive the thing to the moon. Here is my recommendation: Set your rideplate at 2*, put your 2* wedge so that the big part is on top, this is called down wedge. I will bet my bottom dollar that this cures your problem or atleast makes a night and day difference. If it helps try 3* down wedge, now remember to have your GPS with you at all times during this testing process.
Good Luck !!!
Jim
yep, gotta agree with the last 2 posts. I was thinking ride plate at 2ยบ and removing the wedge as a place to start or at least see what happens. As Jim said, have your GPS with you so you can see what each change does to your mph.
Same thoughts we discussed on the phone.
Same thoughts we discussed on the phone.
Was gonna say that earlier. He might need some of those trim tabs to settle it down.
Looks like it could use some training wheels.
u got to get that nozzle down i agree with the other posts to reverse your wedge and start over again on the plate ...but start at level not 4 up
Ok I dropped the ride plate from 5* up to 1.5* up. in .5* increments The porpoise got better each time but never really cleared up. I installed a MPD loader this week and Jack told me 1.5 was way to low and i needed to get back up around 4*. So i put the loader on and plate to 4* up. Boat handled the mild chop better but on smooth water still porpoises at speeds over 50mph. I still have to keep the place diverter in full down to have any amount of driveability. even 1 notch up starts a porpoise. Seems like even at full down the bow is ridding really high.
Anyone have any thoughts?
thanks
How fast is the boat at WOT and does it porpoise at that speed? As other's stated, pull the wedge and see what happens, if the issue persists, flip the wedge for down angle and document all of your changes in a journal noting water conditions, speeds and RPMs. One thing to note is that you may find that your max WOT speed is best when the boat has a midrange porpoise, so it may come down to you deciding which is more important. I don't think that all by itself slackening the 4* setting on the plate is the magic bullet that will cure your ill.
Good luck with it.
Chris
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