I have gotten a few different opinions. So I say to the group......... Thermostat or no thermostat. It's for my BBC. I found out that the plumbing is not right. This has been I hope the answer to the problem of water in the oil. Bought a new Bassett T and am getting ready to put it back together. Take the thermo housing off to check it out and it's gutted. It's a 4 port thermostat. Should I put a thermo or not. Should I just try it and then see what happens? HELP!!
Some people dont like them, but i ran one on my bbc and loved it. the thing worked perfect. water temp was always between 160 & 170 if i remember right. i had a temp sender on the oil pan to, and it was always perfect too. i ran it in all sorts of lake temps & it always worked perfect. i would use one again if i had a lake boat. NELSON#109
I'm not running one and regulate my engine temp to between 140 (WFO and 170 (idle) by restricting my water inlet with a gate valve. The valve would be needed anyhow with a thermo. I'm not so sure I'd want one as I've seen so many posts here of bypass springs jamming and other troubles leading to milkshakes of 1 kind or another (another reason I'll be running jacketed headers next year and not injected ones).
There's my side. :idea:
I've seen so many posts here of bypass springs jamming and other troubles leading to milkshakes of 1 kind or another
Please elaborate as I've never had a thermostat bypass spring jam that I recall of out of several thousand in service over about 15 years. In fact inside the thermo housing there isn't anything for the bypass spring to jam against. It simply supports a valve against a tapered seat.
Bassett Tee Valves on the other hand will cause milkshakes when the spring fails but this has nothing to do with a thermostat vs. not a thermostat.
Also restricting water with a gate valve will many times result in overheating at idle to achieve 160-180ยบ running temp. Not an ideal method of getting motor temp up IMO. This method is quite sensitive to lake temp as well.
8 years w/ the Rex Thermostat system...never any issues.
Run the thermostat and put on a pressure regulator or relief valve near the pump and before everything else, presto, no more milk shake and perfect temps. I run all kinds of sand through my system and no problems so far-Aluminum Squirt
Just got back from a week at the lake. I'm plumbed with a Rex thermostat kit, a bypass valve like you can get from Duane at Hi Tech and a Banderlog water valve. Ran dead nuts 180 degrees, idle, WOT, you name it, no milk shake and the best thing, I was able to keep my headers cool enough to keep from branding myself. Your mileage may vary.
I installed a Rex thermostat last year. Sits right at 165-or-so idling or WOT.
I have gotten a few different opinions. So I say to the group......... Thermostat or no thermostat. It's for my BBC. I found out that the plumbing is not right. This has been I hope the answer to the problem of water in the oil. Bought a new Bassett T and am getting ready to put it back together. Take the thermo housing off to check it out and it's gutted. It's a 4 port thermostat. Should I put a thermo or not. Should I just try it and then see what happens? HELP!!
IM NOT AS KNOWLEDGABLE AS ALOT OF PEOPLE POSTING, BUT I DO KNOW I HAVE NEVER RAN ONE ON ANY OF MY 3 MOTORS AND NEVER HAD A PROBLEM. SET THE INLET ONE TIME AND HAS ALWAYS RAN 160 IDLE AND ABOUT 140 ON THE THROTTLE. EVEN UP AT WILLOW WHERE THE WATER IS REALLY COLD YEAR ROUND.
like some others have said, you should also run a regulator at the inlet. also, regulating engine temp with a gate valve is the absolute wrong thing to do. thats like using duct tape in place of hose clamps. it has been done that way in the past, but you will not find any boat builders or good boat shops doing it, and they dont for a reason. get the thermostat kit, you wont be disapointed. i dont run one on my boat, but thats because it only runs long enough to get it down the 1/4 mile. i do however use a preasure regulator at the inlet. Nelson#109
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote