Thermostat or no thermostat

[ANY&ALL]

Dude just call the # told you before ask away. I'll save around 10,000 dollars worth of motor work, kicking and screaming and bleeding on your self. We have the same boatand the same motor Call 209 267 5885 chad

[FHI-prez]

I've never run a T-stat in a raw water cooled motor. Nor would I. I wouldn't mind if Rexone set me straight here, but I think restricting the water flow at the end of the cycle through the motor seems less than desireable to me. If you get junk from the lake into your system (weeds, sand etc.) I wouldn't want to put a restriction there.
Besides, I see it over and over again. The temp is not accurate in a open system. If you want to compare to a closed system, your oil temp is a much better guage. If your temp guage is showing 140 deg, it's not the same as a closed system. All that means is that the water heated up from lake temp (around 80 deg lets say) to 140 deg. In a closed system the water is not 80 deg entering in the motor. Probably more like 120-130 depending. Your water temp guage in a raw water system should serve nothing more than a comparison to what it usually runs. The actual number doesn't mean crap. There is no comparison to a car water temp. :argue: Setting a Jetboat to run 180 water temp will probably lead to unnecessary flash boiling in the heads around the combustion chamber. I see no point.
If you think your motor is running too cool, adjust by the oil temp, not the water temp.
,
I suppose that if you run a strainer, bypass valve, and T-stat, it could work, but there is no antifreeze/boil to help protect from flash boiling. Keeping the water in the motor long enough to heat it up to 180 º (thus restricting flow) I'd think would only lead to more likelyhood of flash steaming in the heads. That T-stat will never open up as far as it would in a closed system because it has to keep the water in the motor much longer. It has to heat up the water 100º or more instead of 20-30º like it does in a car or in a closed marine set up. That means the water sits around the combustion chamber longer, with less flow to move the steam pockets.
I'd be willing to bet that if you get your lake water temp up to 180º showing on your temp guage, you are dangerously close to pre-detonation. Keep an eye for little black spots on your spark plug insulators, and good luck.
Just my .02
Nick
BTW, you guys that are running a raw water system and get water temp readings of 180º, what's your oil temp running? Just curious. Would like to know if I'm way off base here.

[SmokinLowriderSS]

My apologies Rex. Yes, the spring problems I have seen posted a lot have been Banderlog valves and Basset T's. I have a bad tendancy to overgeneralize at times, I need to work on that. Thx for the call on it.
I only intended to say in my post that I have a very simple system that fits, works well, has never overheated me (unless closed to far), has never in 27 years caused a milkshake or any other problem, and that I do not wish to make it more complicated (or troublesome).
A non-thermostated cooling system works great for me in Ks, Ok, Tx, etc all summer in lake temps from 60 to 90 From about May to October. I have only ever been out on colder water this spring (March/April breaking in my rebuilt 454) and, as expected, I did have to close it down just a bit to get above 110 running on plane. Had to open just a bit once May arrived as she wanted to get hotter than I keep her. I don't let her idle above 170, the powered temp drops to about 140. I doubt I have any hot-spot troubles. I also do not believe I am "damaging" my engine running her at these temps. The only reason my 454 needed the rebuild it got was that I replaced the rod bolts in the power upgrade so the rods/pistons had to exit the cylinders. I had no Cyl wear. I am not even .10 over after over 300 hard wrapping hours AND the cylinder hone. I do think running one arround 100 degrees (as I have seen posted) is not good on them either.
Running my Performer RPM manifold, I did elect to use the additional water lines (external) from the back of the heads to the outlet crossover (supposedly to assist head cooling according to Edelbrock).

[BigBlockBaja]

Im running a Kit similar to the Rex kit. I got mine from CP. But I love mine. Temps goes right to 180 or so all day. Im just wondering if the spring in there kinda acts like a pressure relief. Cuase im not running a regulator.

['78 gt boat]

Well........ bad news. I was going to order the Rex thermo housing and all of the XRP hoses and fittings until I brought the boat to Glen at PBS. He said the boat is veryy pretty but....... Since Olympic boat centers has sat on this problem for three weeks now and never changed the oil or did anything the cam is rusted, lifters are rusted, rods have rust on them and rust on one of the cylinders that we can see without taking the entire motor apart. Only the tunnel ram is off at this point. Now I'm looking at approx. $2500.00 for R&R of the motor and Olympic is not sure if they want to spend the money to fix it. They want to possibly just give back my $3600.00. :220v: :220v: :220v: I don't want my f____ng money back I want to "Float out with my boat out!!"

[Rexone]

I've never run a T-stat in a raw water cooled motor. Nor would I. I wouldn't mind if Rexone set me straight here, but I think restricting the water flow at the end of the cycle through the motor seems less than desireable to me. If you get junk from the lake into your system (weeds, sand etc.) I wouldn't want to put a restriction there.
The thermo unit really doesn't restrict anything when open. When the thermo closes the spring loaded bypass immediately opens (with very slight pressure) so water continues to flow through the exhaust unrestricted. I would be more worried about weeds getting caught in hoses or fittings than the thermostat and weeds would be a problem weather you have a themostat or not IMO.
Besides, I see it over and over again. The temp is not accurate in a open system. If you want to compare to a closed system, your oil temp is a much better guage. If your temp guage is showing 140 deg, it's not the same as a closed system. All that means is that the water heated up from lake temp (around 80 deg lets say) to 140 deg. In a closed system the water is not 80 deg entering in the motor. Probably more like 120-130 depending. Your water temp guage in a raw water system should serve nothing more than a comparison to what it usually runs. The actual number doesn't mean crap. There is no comparison to a car water temp. :argue: Setting a Jetboat to run 180 water temp will probably lead to unnecessary flash boiling in the heads around the combustion chamber. I see no point.
I disagree. The temp reading (providing the sender is in the intake or stock head location) will be the "hottest" water reading in the motor. 180º is a long way from 212º (boiling). IMO you will not see any flash boiling or steam pockets with a temp sender reading of 180º or even as high as 200º for that matter. I've run engines with thermos installed at these temps with no boiling issues of any type.
If you think your motor is running too cool, adjust by the oil temp, not the water temp.
Too cool water temp will cause too cool oil temp as well, which is a bigger problem IMO than the water temp. Raising the water up into even the 160º range in turn gets the oil up to temp so it can lubricate properly as well as burn off condensation that normally collects in the oil which is in itself very important. Oil temps consistantly under 212º are not good particularly if they're substantally under 212º. Running water temps down in the 100-120º range with an open system won't get the oil temps up unless you're full throttle alot (which most boats are not). Some motors make as much or more power running cool water temps. But how much and at what cost in terms of sacraficed oil lubrication characteristics and the inability to evaporate off condensation due to too low of oil temp over time. To me it's not worth it unless you're drag racing, which is a totally different scenario.
I suppose that if you run a strainer, bypass valve, and T-stat, it could work, but there is no antifreeze/boil to help protect from flash boiling. Keeping the water in the motor long enough to heat it up to 180 º (thus restricting flow) I'd think would only lead to more likelyhood of flash steaming in the heads. That T-stat will never open up as far as it would in a closed system because it has to keep the water in the motor much longer. It has to heat up the water 100º or more instead of 20-30º like it does in a car or in a closed marine set up. That means the water sits around the combustion chamber longer, with less flow to move the steam pockets.
When the water reaches 160º the thermo opens (no less or more than in a closed system) until the temp goes under 160º enough to close it. This is what creates the temp cycling effect we experience with the thermo system. Typically it cycles about 20º open, shut, open shut.... At no point should any water sit in the combusion chamber area long enough to get over 180-190º. When the thermo opens that water moves on and is replaced by cooler water from the block. The difference between temp around the combustion chamber and at the sender my guess is negligible and not close to enough to cause any boiling. With the block filling from the bottom as factory designed you cannot have boiling until some part of it reaches over 212º (probably slightly higher considering altitude and a little system pressure). We've never experienced any boiling or steaming problems with the use of our thermostat system running 160º stats that I've ever experienced or heard about. In the past 2 decades we've made and sold approximately 10000 of them and the company that made them prior to Rex probably sold at least that many more. They're simply not a product we've had any problem trends of any kind with.

[Rexone]

Well........ bad news. I was going to order the Rex thermo housing and all of the XRP hoses and fittings until I brought the boat to Glen at PBS. He said the boat is veryy pretty but....... Since Olympic boat centers has sat on this problem for three weeks now and never changed the oil or did anything the cam is rusted, lifters are rusted, rods have rust on them and rust on one of the cylinders that we can see without taking the entire motor apart. Only the tunnel ram is off at this point. Now I'm looking at approx. $2500.00 for R&R of the motor and Olympic is not sure if they want to spend the money to fix it. They want to possibly just give back my $3600.00. :220v: :220v: :220v: I don't want my f____ng money back I want to "Float out with my boat out!!"
Well now that Sucks.
Just a thought if they're willing to give you your money back they're probably going to liquidate the boat real cheap so they don't have to deal with it. Perhaps you can just negotiate a partial refund and keep the boat. :idea:

['78 gt boat]

that's what Glen was saying. He says they will probably scrap the hull and sell the parts from the motor and that would suck ass. I will negotiate as much as possible being that is what I do for a living (negotiate). Maybe I can get them to pay the majority of it and keep the life of this pretty boat going. I would hate to see something so nice go down in a ball of flames. Maybe I can work with Glen to help out and learn a lot for a slight price drop. Who knows..... This is the luck I have been given my entire life so far why change it now. I hate the saying," If it looks too good to be true, it probably is!" :cry:

[ANY&ALL]

save the hull I'll buy it. WAIT let them scrap it then mine will go up in value one less GT. Just kidden

['78 gt boat]

:yuk: :yuk: :yuk: :yuk: :yuk: :yuk: Very funny. I'm gonna get it fixed one way or another. If I have to take the bastards to court to grt my money back I will. It's going in the shop by the end of the week to get it fixed.