ok guys you gave my little brain alot to look at when i looked at my engine. OBNOXIOUS1 gave me huge info too. after taking all your info i went to work and here are my results.
1. the turbos spin free when removung exhaust.
2 carb is opening to full throttle
3 at that time i had to stop because buddys came over and the beer was to tastey to work
4.i noticed on my paper info the guage vaccume location and the boost reference line are swapped. ( unsure if will make a difference)
5 the dist is locked out, but at idle im at 10 deg and at 2100 rpm still at 10 deg.
i have not set to the specs OBNOXIOUS1 provided yet till i confirm my equip to what we orig talked about. i have provided pics of everything to help show what i got
thank you thank you for all your help guys. :boxed:
Dan,, swapping the gauge and boost reference lines will make no difference, they both read manifold vaccuum/boost.
10 degrees total timing will cause your stumble and power loss. Make sure that you don't set it too high, as I originally said, Banks used to recommend 28 degrees total. That should be your next step,, confirm that you have the timing correct.
Your definitely talking to the right guy. Barry should be able to help you sort things out. I have some old Banks schematics and information I could send you if you'd like. PM a fax # to me and I'll send the info.
well i set it at 20 deg at this time. i was being a little careful since i know the boat probly has cheap gas in it. the guy filled it and i havent used it enought to run it down to put good into it. will it cause knocking? with the fuel ref line will it compensate for more fuel ? the boat has a knock senser on the dash but it dont move and probly not hooked up . i could not locate the senser on the block. is this even needed?
I would always drain gas tanks before risking engine damage. If you do not know for sure what grade/quality of fuel is in it, or the fuels age for that matter I would definitely drain it. Don't take a chance man.
well i set it at 20 deg at this time. i was being a little careful since i know the boat probably has cheap gas in it. the guy filled it and i haven't used it enough to run it down to put good into it. will it cause knocking? with the fuel ref line will it compensate for more fuel ? the boat has a knock sensor on the dash but it dont move and probably not hooked up . i could not locate the sensor on the block. is this even needed?
Does your distributor have a centrifugal advance?If so is it working.The weights can freeze up and give you no advance.What ignition system are you running?If the knock sensor system is connected into your ignition system it may cause a problem if not connected to a sensor on the block.
well i set it at 20 deg at this time. i was being a little careful since i know the boat probly has cheap gas in it. the guy filled it and i havent used it enought to run it down to put good into it. will it cause knocking? with the fuel ref line will it compensate for more fuel ? the boat has a knock senser on the dash but it dont move and probly not hooked up . i could not locate the senser on the block. is this even needed?
I would not try to run it with fuel of unknown quality. How much fuel is in the boat? You might be able to idle it around some to use it up, after all, a turbo engine is a low compression engine until you load it and make boost, but a 24' boat is going to load the engine pretty easily. If you have some idea how much fuel is in the boat, and how old it is, you might be able to add racing gas to bring the octane up. I know gas prices are pretty crazy, but the safest thing would be to get it all out of the boat and start with fresh. I would not run it with the timing retarded either, make sure it is set correctly.
thanks again ill go to it tommarrow and put timing at 28 deg. i noticed it still has a standard coil on it . probly could use a upgrade. as far as fuel i know its been there since last summer , the guy said he added fuel stablizer in it. at this time it has about 60 gal in it. should i try to use octane booster to help stablize it . i know after i set timing up it sounded so much nicer. ill pull cap tommarrow to make sure no weights are stuck and giving me a false reading just in case. as far as a knock senser you say its in the ignition ? where should i look for it. its odd i think i know why this is the 3rd engine in this boat . i think the guy was a idiot. i dont know so i go to you guys to give me knowlege of what i got before i hurt it. i think this guy just figured he was smart and figure it out himself
thanks again ill go to it tommarrow and put timing at 28 deg. i noticed it still has a standard coil on it . probly could use a upgrade. as far as fuel i know its been there since last summer , the guy said he added fuel stablizer in it. at this time it has about 60 gal in it. should i try to use octane booster to help stablize it . i know after i set timing up it sounded so much nicer. ill pull cap tommarrow to make sure no weights are stuck and giving me a false reading just in case. as far as a knock senser you say its in the ignition ? where should i look for it. its odd i think i know why this is the 3rd engine in this boat . i think the guy was a idiot. i dont know so i go to you guys to give me knowlege of what i got before i hurt it. i think this guy just figured he was smart and figure it out himself
If you are not sure about the distributor, maybe your engine builder can look at it and tell you if it is "locked out". The original Banks systems in the late 70's had Mallory dual point distributors,, locked out with no advance in them. Fuel and ignition timing are the things that can kill a turbo engine. Either lack of fuel or poor fuel quality. With the timing advanced now,, be extra careful to watch the boost gauge, as you may see an improvement. I should have had you measure the bypass hole in the exhaust housing when you were checking to make sure the turbos rotate.
I would still strongly recommend draining the tanks. You can probably mix it in with some of your car's fuel or something rather than just dumping it. The alternative is a day of motoring around without getting the engine into boost to try and use it up. Always buy the highest octane gas you can find for the turbo engine. If the boat has a fuel pressure gauge,, keep an eye on it also, you want it to be about 7 1/2 lbs. If the pressure drops off much, you can burn pistons also. Once you have everything set up correctly, the turbo engine should be very reliable.
to reply to you . i noticed today i saw a marine factory fuel pump. i am not sure if it can supply the engine with enough fuel. not to be a dummy but how do they lock out a dist. im ordering a new pump and regualtor tommarrow so i can make sure i have enough fuel. i can still measure the hole if it is necessary. the hand made exhaust to exit the boat it a bear to get off. i noticed no waste gates either are they internal? beforei even go to the point of if i can get more boost ill learn with what i got , ( crawl before i walk) i still got to pull a plug and check it for lean or rich.
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