watch the overlap on the valves also. them big valves have been known to hit each other with big overlap cams.
Omega
Great head for a car but not so good in a low rpm
boat deal. Dooe-r is the casting number for CJ's.
The Dove-c is good on boats. Be sure to to put hard valve seats in any pre 75 head. I looked at the cost of setting up a set of heads valves,seats
etc. it was so high just got a set of Edelbrocks.
waterslinger:
Great head for a car but not so good in a low rpm
boat deal. Dooe-r is the casting number for CJ's.
The Dove-c is good on boats. Be sure to to put hard valve seats in any pre 75 head. I looked at the cost of setting up a set of heads valves,seats
etc. it was so high just got a set of Edelbrocks. that brings up a good suggestion. sell your heads on ebay and buy the edelbrocks. they are awesome for what you are doing. you should get enough for those heads to justify the new ones. I bet you could get 750+ for them from a Mustang guy. As blown said those heads don't start to work until 5500+ rpm. they have such large ports that they require big rpm to increase tunnel velocity. The dove-c's would be good (btw c8ve,c9ve's are virtually the same, I think the c9's have the exhaust crossover where c8's don't)it really depends on how much you want to spend. the edelbrocks are highly recommended though.
Omega
Waterslinger,
Where do you get that Cj heads are not good for a boat? I had Dove heads and I hated them. My motor is running Cj heads and they are night and day compaired to the dove heads
waterslinger:
Great head for a car but not so good in a low rpm
boat deal. Dooe-r is the casting number for CJ's.
The Dove-c is good on boats. Be sure to to put hard valve seats in any pre 75 head. I looked at the cost of setting up a set of heads valves,seats
etc. it was so high just got a set of Edelbrocks. Dont waste your time putting seats in iron heads, did it one fell out, Talked to George at clay smith and he told me cuz the heating and cooling vairies so much that seats dont work, do spend your money on a good stainless valve. The reason being the stainless valve will retain it's shape and not pound the seat out. The stock valve moves around and then starts in one spot and pounds the seat out.
I run stainless valves and some off the shelf lead additive and have not pounded a seat out for as long as I have owned the boat.
OMEGA_BUBBLE_JET:
them big valves have been known to hit each other with big overlap cams.
Omega Don't worry about this DHercules...it doesn't apply to you.
This was true only on the earliest of the first run of aluminum 429 heads. The problem was quickly corrected and it is not likely anyone will see this...just a proper thing to evaluate on the original A-429 heads if you have a pair...
LO
Hey Dan,
What Southwind do you have? The Original or the T-Deck? I have a T-Deck with a 460 also.
LO
A interesting read on valves, got it from the moparts site, lakes you should check it out.
priced out EVERY ITEM on a W-5 Build Intake to Pan for a guy from NY about a month ago, including an upgrade to 4 bolt billet Pro Gram caps, 4" Crank, ATI damper, Milodon pan, Eagle H beams, Ross Flat Tops, Custom Comp Cam, Smith Bro's Pushrods, W-5's, T&D Rockers (used), INDY Intake, Fully ported heads...... It came in JUST under $8000 including all machine work and port work. That included the price of the block, EVERYTHING.....It would have been about a 630 HP Motor, Flat tappet cam...It was basically a copy of B3Stroker's Motor with his new cam. If he had more $ We were going to upgrade to a Roller.
So I'm not convinced these Hemi heads are anything to be drooling over. They have all the same downsides of a 426 Hemi, Heavy pistons, with terrible flame travel, quench problems, Heavy Rocker arms, piss poor valvetrain geometry for RPM etc etc.
I see they did put a 2.02" intake valve in, hopefully they kept the runners relatively small as well otherwise they will be a real pig on a non big inch or forced induction motor.
1.75" Exhaust valve? [censored]? More crack smoking going on. I've seen a 1.625" valve put up over 260 cfm on my bench with a good designed small exhaust port (NO tube) These guys and their oversized exhaust valves are funny. I'm sitting here looking at W-5 Exhaust flow #'s with a 1.60" valve spanking a certain 1.81" valve head I recently had on the bench. Big valves on the exhaust side is not always the answer. I was discussing this with W5Dart66 the other night and he was mentioning the GM Sprint car motors he see's dynoed all the time in person are now down to a 1.55" Exhaust valve. Apparently they keep going smaller and smaller over the years, realizing that bigger is not always better. Those motors make between 810-825 HP on Alky out of 410" Naturally Aspirated. Now try to convince me you need a bigger exhaust valve.....
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Blown 472:
A interesting read on valves, got it from the moparts site, lakes you should check it out.
priced out EVERY ITEM on a W-5 Build Intake to Pan
Check it, Blown:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2425719597
LO
you going to buy that?
I thought that stuff on the exhaust valve size was interesting as we were talking bout that not to long ago.
[ July 31, 2003, 01:20 PM: Message edited by: Blown 472 ]
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