Loader inspection

[Unchained]

I decided I better inspect my loader after all the hard running I've done this year.
It looks like it's been beating itself up bad.
http://www2.***boat.com/image_center...oader1-med.jpg
The flat piece that ties the two sides together broke next to the weld and then the sides were free to flap in and out until it bent the flat piece straight down.
http://www2.***boat.com/image_center...oader3-med.jpg
The loader was a well made TIG welded piece and I don't think there were any problems with it's construction. It had a V blocker that I machined out. I've used it for about 5 years.
Roger Leas told me to bolt the end of the loader through the bottom of the intake. I guess I better do that now.
After looking at the loader and the impeller that's been turning 7000 rpm just past the end of it, it seems like the loader should either be shorter to keep it away from that much turbulance or it should have a shape to it that aims the water in the direction of the rotation. Either way it doesn't like the turbulance in front of that impeller.

[UBFJ #454]

Mark -
We build some 15 Experimental Loaders of various design and materials before settling on the design we're now running. The basics of what we've come up with are:
1) All the Steel we use is 3/16 ths inch Cold Roll Steel except for the Mounting Plate which is 1/4 inch.
2) All welds are TIG Welds using ChromeMoly Rod and are Continuous, Top & Bottom and Both Sides, along their total length.
3) All Loaders have a 1 1/2 inch horizontal support of the verticals on top, about midway their length and a 1 inch horizontal support maybe a 1/4 inch up from their bottoms, at their rear.
4) All Leading & Trailing Edges of Both Horizontal & Vertical Pieces are Sharpened Razor Sharp.
5) Horizontal Loading Blades are 2 inches wide and vary in length from say something like 6 1/2 inches to a maximim of 10 1/2 inches so that they unload in the area of the front of the inducer. The seperation between the verticals of the loaders is 2 inches (I.D.).
6) I Speed Coat our Loaders Every Run to Both Help Prevent Corrosion and so that I can 'Read' the Loader for efficiency of water flow ... Water Flow either Shines or Takes Away the Speed Coat.
Realize we're running in a 1/4 mile Race Environment Only so we can Check (And DO) Before & After Every Run. In Recreational Boating, I feel it is Prudent to Check the Loader Every Time The Boat Boat Goes Into And Comes Out Of The Water (Checking all the welds for Cracks) ... This Includes Checking To Make Sure The Loader Bolts Are Tight (I'm Sure You Do This). When a boat goes into storage, I take the loader out and keep it on the shelf until next time.
Looking at the pictures you posted I'd say: a) That's an Awfully Long Loader (Your absolutely right ... Having the tail of the loader right in front of the impeller is Not A Good Thing ... Also, remember Heavier Boats Need Less Dropped Keel & Faster Boats Don't Need Extremely Long Loaders ... The faster the boat, the shorter the loader you can get away with ... to a point) and, b) Having only one brace in the back is Risky ... Might consider what I suggest above as far as horizontal bracing, both on top & bottom. As far as drilling more holes in the suction piece ... I 'Ain't' For That ... As properly built loader doesn't need that in order to function properly and survive.
One last thought ... While your Peak WOT RPMs are considerably less than what we run @ WOT, your running for a much longer time and probably somewhat rougher water ... something to think about when considering my above.
Hope the above helps ... If you need more specifics let me know.
Jak

[Duane HTP]

Mark, Bear is correct in all that he says. I think what happened with your loader was that when you cut the v blocker out of the loader, you eliminated the lower bracing between the two vertical runners. When the center blocker is taken out, another strap or brace needs to be welded into the lower portion of the vertical runners to stop them from squeezing togethter under extreme conditions. Here is an example. http://www.hi-techperformance.com/images/topload.jpg

[SmokinLowriderSS]

Well, at least you got away without major damages. Needing to repair & mod or replace your loader sure beats your impeller trying to digest part of it. :jawdrop: I would never have thought of it (and don't anticipate trouble with mine as I am not running it NEARLY as hard) but after this post, :idea: I'll be looking at it from time to time, just for inspection purposes.

[DeputyDawg]

As fast as unchained's boat runs I don't even want to think about what might have happened to him if that thing has self destructed at 116mph!!! I saw a a loader fail on a very quick Texas Tunnel in Ft. Worth years ago and it wasn't pretty. It looked like the dude hit the ejection seat button.

[Unchained]

Well I replaced the broken part with 1/8" stainless and TIG welded in another one on top.
http://www2.***boat.com/image_center...epair1-med.jpg
I have them placed right against the inside of the intake top and bottom so the loader is blocked in and can't shake around from water turbulance anymore.
I made the repairs and was back on the water by 2:00 this afternoon.
Thanks for all the input.

[Duane HTP]

Looks good Mark. I was testing a customers boat last summer and as I got up to about 86 mph his cheapie loader let go and damn near turned the boat upside down.
http://www.hi-techperformance.com/im...er_9813_cr.jpg
This is not an area to skimp on quality to save a buck. Use good stuff down here.

[SmokinLowriderSS]

Dayum DuaneHTP, That's a ride I wouldn't have wanted (I'm sure we share that sentiment haha ) Did his upholstery clean up OK? That is a pretty scary thought to have a loader come apart at high speeds.

[UBFJ #454]

Mark -
"I made the repairs and was back on the water by 2:00 this afternoon."
Why??? Why Not A Totally New Loader ... With ALL NEW STEEL? All the other welds on the Loader you originally showed have been Stressed & Strained Beyond Belief and with the Hp in the Boat your running ... Is a 'Fix It' of That Loader Really Sane?

[Unchained]

Jak,
I inspected it good and the rest of it looks OK.
I think that having it blocked in like I did is going to be a big plus rather than having all that hanging from the front four bolts which puts all the stress on those front two welds.
If I go with another loader I'll go stainless steel next time.
It's a little harder to saw out and drill but the welding is all the same and the material is a lot tougher. The first one probably wouldn't have broke if it was out of stainless steel. The stainless material strength is above 100,000 psi tinsel strength as compared to Mild steel at 50,000 psi.