Reply With QuoteI can't imagine a reason to try to torque them. Mine are on a chevy, and you can not torque the adjustable rockers. You just set the clearance and tighten the jam-screw. Hold the nut tho while you tighten the screw.
Any real reason to torque down the Poly Locks after tightening down the set screw?
I've just always tightened down the jam screw....(never had one back out).
And if needed, can I simply put a torque wrench on-em...or do I need to start over from jump street?
I can't imagine a reason to try to torque them. Mine are on a chevy, and you can not torque the adjustable rockers. You just set the clearance and tighten the jam-screw. Hold the nut tho while you tighten the screw.
No torque needed. Any interference is sufficient unless you have terrible vibration problems. But watch the lash after you tighten the nut real tight. It usually backs your clearance off about 2 thou. So just check it agian when you are tight. Then adjust accordingly.
As I thought...I'll leave them alone. Simply hold the nut at the adjustment and tighten down the center lock screw.
If your rocker arm studs are not machined flat, the set screw may not get a good grip and also the lash can change when you tighten the set screw so here's what I do, I set the lash and back off a couple of thousands then snug up the set screw, then tighten the nut to the correct lash, that puts extra clamping on the set screw and you are sure to have the correct lash!.. If you use a stud girdle then all you need to do is set the lash and and give the set screw a tweak to hold it while you set the rest of them, the stud girdle will hold them in place after that!..
If your rocker arm studs are not machined flat, the set screw may not get a good grip and also the lash can change when you tighten the set screw so here's what I do, I set the lash and back off a couple of thousands then snug up the set screw, then tighten the nut to the correct lash, that puts extra clamping on the set screw and you are sure to have the correct lash!.. If you use a stud girdle then all you need to do is set the lash and and give the set screw a tweak to hold it while you set the rest of them, the stud girdle will hold them in place after that!..
That's what i do. When we ran the Super stock without stud girdles twisting 72-7400 RPM's we never had a problem with them backing out. If i didn't do it this way there would be a couple that would invariably loosen up on me.
:220v: :crossx: He!! Terminal V, have you ever had an engine last long enough for the lash to back off?
Here is an interesting note: I did some the other day on a cold motor. I always do the trick of adjusting them then backing them off a few thou, tightening the set screw, then tighten the polly lock with the wrench. After running the boat I had several that were not very tight, and one that fell off all together. So anyway if you do it cold, run it then make sure they are still tight.
That's what i do. When we ran the Super stock without stud girdles twisting 72-7400 RPM's we never had a problem with them backing out. If i didn't do it this way there would be a couple that would invariably loosen up on me.
Did you ever break any rocker studs this way or did you use aluminum roller rockers to ease the shock? I'm guessing the rules didn't allow you to use stud girdles.
Just curious.
:220v: :crossx: He!! Terminal V, have you ever had an engine last long enough for the lash to back off?
LOL, yea but it's been about 3 years :cry: Come to think of it that's when i went to the stud girdle. HMMMMMMM :rollside:
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